Hi YoleeG,
I am an African American male living here in BA. In a way I don't yet feel qualified to answer your question because I have only been here for 2 weeks but I will try to answer from my own experience thus far since it appears that no other African Americans have responded to you yet. From what I see day to day most of the people here seem to be of European decent all though some of them are quite dark. The guidebooks and historical references say that they are mostly the descendants of Spanish and Italians. The portenos that I have met all claim to be Italian. I think that that must be the "in" thing to be down here because some of them don't look Italian, don't know how to speak Italian, and in general don't know much about Italy. This is funny to me because I have experienced the same thing in Brazil and California. Many people around the world hinge their connection to "Mama Italy" on the basis of some distant great grand relative by marriage. I will say though that here in Buenos Aires I have felt something. Their is a distance and it is something that I would be tempted to call racism if there weren't so many other factors at work here. For one thing I speak Spanish but I am not fluent so it could be that. I also have an American culture in the way that I dress and act and I'm not sure how they are reacting to that. I am a light skinned African American and have many times been mistaken for a Brazilian. A porteno friend of mine told me that some Portenos have racist ideas about Afro-Brazilians. (and I have seen myself that it seems that darker African Americans seem to be treated very well here because they are so rare that they are like a novelty.) I have not been here long enough to really know what is going on. The only thing that I can say is that you, as a African American, you probably know what it is like to "feel" racism. I have traveled many places in the world and I can say that I am feeling a level of "something" here as it relates to me (be it racism or whatever) that is not as bad as in the Midwest in America but worse than in Europe or Brazil. Keep in mind that Buenos Aires is huge like New York city so there is that general feeling of alienation that you find in any huge place but what I am talking about is something else. If you are a woman who is in need of a lot of positive attention from men I would wonder about how that would play out here. It seems that the lighter skinned blondes are worshipped here. I will give you an example. I belong to a gym where there is a lot of posturing (men flexing what they have to flex and women eyeing and flirting) There was a beautiful black girl working out there with braided hair. At the same time there were some other pretty dark haired portenas there along with some indians and two blondes. All of the guys in the place were tripping over themselves to get to those blondes and totally ignoring the black girl and the indians (to even more of a degree than this would happen in the U.S.). I'm a people watcher. I love a scene like that because to me it is like watching an episode of National Geographic. I think that it bothered this particular girl (although I realize that many women wouldn't have cared one way or the other). I am going to stay here for two months and actually I wish that this question would have been asked later in my time here. I am sorry that I seem to be writing a novel here but I have seen questions similar to this on other sites and all of the caucasion respondents have answered that there is no racism in BA and they are not in a position to know. I will say that in spite of this I still love this city and I am very grateful to be here. There is SO much to do and everything is SO CHEAP. It is like having a New York city lifestyle at a sixth of the price. I live in Recoletta where I have a high speed internet connection, cable tv, doorman, and maidservice and I pay $500US and have no other bills. This is considered ridiculously expensive by Argentinian standards but it is hard to find a place for $500 a month in St Louis, Missouri(considered to be one of the cheapest cities in the US). A cab driver bringing me home the other night told me that I live a block from the ex-president. I would say (racism or not) you have to come down here. Due to the economy, being in Buenos Aires right now is a very singular and unique experience. I think that being here now is a lot like being in Paris in the 20's and 30's. It is a "hot" expat hang now but you need to jump on it now because things are getting more expensive every day. You don't want to get here when it's too late and run into old timers talking about the good old days when things used to be cheap.