The weather, the music, the nightlife, the food, the wine and most importantly the people.
Yes, there's dog crap everwhere, the pavements are broken, the government is useless, electricals cost too much, I can't find a good bloody mary for love nor money... but happiness isn't defined by clean pavements, efficient beauracracy and a cheap microwaves.
I like being able to bitch all day about every trait that pops up daily in this forum; arguing with taxi drivers and choking on colectivo fumes, only noticing the smell of dogpoo on your shoe once you've ordered your coffee, compulsive hording of small change. All things that feature in my daily life, which I've grown to love. Grumbling. Which I'll still be doing as I put myself to bed, with a smile on my face, lips stained with malbec and nest of Alfajore crumbs beneath me.
Was a bit disappointed with bloody mary at 878, but they do a mean cocktail with beetroot juice and mustard vodka. Another reason to be cheerful - good drinks, well made and nice bars to drink them in.