Moving soon to Buenos Aires

delia15

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Hi! Just joined the forum, but I have been reading and searching the site for the past couple of months. Found lots of great info. My hubby and I will be moving soon to Buenos Aires due to job relocation. We are waiting for the entry permit to obtain our visas. It is taking forever. My husband will be working in Puerto Madero and he would like to be close to work. It seems no one in the forum seems to think positive of living in Puerto Madero. Tried searching past post about it, but couldn't find much. Is it that terrible, even for just the beginning until we get a feel of where we would like to live on a more permanent basis? :confused:
 
Delia;
First, you're talking about the part east of the old docks, right? They neighborhood around the Hilton Hotel, between the docks and the ecological reserve?

Puerto Madero is a pretty neighborhood; but its very sleek, modern, and new; in other words, it doesn't reflect what most people envision when they think of Buenos Aires. Its also the most expensive neighborhood in the city. Other drawbacks include lack of public transportation (everyone is rich and drives their own car or has a chauffer), distance to diverse shopping, and limited selection of restauarants and other things to do. The upsides are pretty big though, it seems safer than most of the city, the traffic is lighter and people don't drive quite as aggressively, and the buildings have all been built in the last 20 years.

If you're talking about the area west of the docks, along Avenidia Moreau de Justo, that is a truly terrible place to live. There are some nice restaurants, but everything is very expensive, the traffic is bad, its noisy, and there are some night clubs that I suspect keep the noise level high into early morning hours.
 
I agree with Kurt and will add its definitely not terrible. Its the most expensive neighbourhood for a reason - newest and sleakest apartment building, close to the river, quiet and safe (they actually have their own police service) and on the river some really nice restaurants.

I am not sure if you are planning on getting a car, but if not I would rule out PM. I would actually rule it out anyway, it just doesnt feel like Buenos Aires. I think thats where the hate comes from on the forum, it is more like a Western inner city zone.

I would recommend Recoleta and Palermo Chico (ie down towards Libertador), which is where I live. Both close to PM (I work there is well), upscale neighbourhoods yet the architecture and ambience is more BA. Also central, plenty of restaurants, parks & open spaces and relatively safe.

Either way, if possible (and based on experience as this is what we did when we arrived) I would highly recommend a short stay when you first arrive, give yourselves time to check out the different barrios and areas and see where you would like to live for the rest of your stay.
 
For someone coming down for work purposes, I would think your first priority is to make yourselves as comfortable as possible in as short a time as possible so that there is a minimum of fuss and getting into the job. Depending, of course, on how much time you or your husband may have between arriving and starting work. If you had a month or so, you could stay anywhere at first and find a place that suits you without having to worry about transit time for work.

If it's a shorter time to have to start work, I wouldn't plan on settling down immediately. You need to find a place close to work and then take time to see where you might want to live if it's a longer-term kind of thing.

I don't know that I would rent a place right off in Puerto Madero, for the reasons given. It's isolated, although easy to get to. When you first come here, you're going to want easy access to stores because you will be buying things (even if it's just food to cook, and a laundry place to wash clothes, etc). It's not impossible to buy things in PM, but I don't think there are many, if any kioscos (little convenience stores) and things like hardware shops, locksmiths, etc. I've never noticed them. They're not that far away, but you can live in places that have these things in abundance right next door.

Just across Alem (which is what Libertador turns into) from Puerto Madero is a nice neighborhood (actualy a part of Retiro officially, but on the other side of Alem and Puerto Madero) that is next to San Martin Plaza. It is bounded by 9 de Julio (I've heard called the widest avenue in the world), Libertador, Alem and Santa Fe. The area is close to a large slum (called a villa - it's behind the train station Retiro and extends up to Puerto Madero environs at one end. BTW, Recoleta is as close to the slum, and Palermo's edges next to Recoleta as well.) but it is a ritzy residential area with a lot of expensive, comfortable apartments. There is a very large (for BA) police presence in the area. I live there, a half block from Plaza San Martin, one block away from a local police station. It's fairly safe, as long as you stay away from the train station Retiro at night and early in the morning. It's down on one end of Puerto Madero (but across Alem, as mentioned), but easily reachable with a 15 minute walk. Places are going to be more expensive here, but you can find some nice places.

On the other side of Santa Fe, still between Alem and 9 de Julio for quite a ways (Diagonal Norte?) is Micro Centro. There are probably a ton of apartments to stay in that area and that whole area is also just across Alem from Puerto Madero. The prices will be much more reasonable, but the scale of newness and/or luxury will be lower.

Personally, I would stay as close to work as possible and still be comfortable until you know the score. Palermo begins to get into traffic issues when you talk about rush hour. Personally, I thank my lucky stars every day that I can work in my own office in my apartment, because if I had to ride a packed bus and deal with all the stops, pickpockets, and traffic, try to find a taxi (like everyone else at that time) and wait in traffic, squeeze onto subway cars an deal with pickpockets, or drive myself through traffic at rush hour, I'd shoot myself after a while. I used to do it a few times a week when I first came down here, and it's only gotten worse as the city has revamped some bus routes and screwed up the traffic patterns in this end of the city. Getting here from Palermo would probably be at least a half hour (5 minutes without traffic - it's close by, but probably too far for a walk every morning and evening) and up to one and a half hours (depending on your transport type) from Nunez at the far end of Cap Fed.

I'd think either of the two areas I'd mentioned would be the best place to start off since the work location is in Puerto Madero. In the areas I've mentioned, there's everything you need within a short walk, usually on the same block. Short walk to work, or a short taxi ride (which sometimes may take as long as a walk anyway...).

Get the lay of the land if you're going to be down here long enough, figure out a better place to live on your own time, and meanwhile transit time and frustrating traffic don't have to be a stress-makers while getting settled into work.
 
Thanks everyone for the prompt reply. Eveyone so far has given great info / advice. Yes, the area in PM I was refering to, is the area part east of the old docks. The neighborhood around the Hilton Hotel, between the docks and the ecological reserve. My husband will start work upon our arrival so he definitely doesn't want to deal with traffic nor have a commute. He will be working close by the Yatch Club. I on the other hand will be working from home. We are not rich, but will have a car since the company my husband works at will be providing one. Safety and avoiding traffic / commute time is one of our priorities. We do like modern and new places so PM is attractive to us. If we decide to stay in PM, I feel I might get bored after a few months, but by then we will have a better feel and can move to a location that meets our needs. Since this is a work related move, we have relocation services, I will mentioned to our relocation rep about the suggestions I got and see if we can find a nice place close to work. Thanks everyone again. Looking forward to getting settled and starting this new chapter in our lives.
 
I lived in Puerto Madero for a couple of years. It is a bit sterile but in no way awful. It's nice to walk about in, has great open air concerts throughout January, some decent restaurants (Marcelo being my favourite) and most of the apartment blocks have high end facilities, pools, gyms etc. On the weekend all sorts of people descend on the area to walk along the costanera and eat bondiola and choripan from the numerous puestos. These are also open 24 hours a day so you need never go hungry! All in all, not a bad place to base yourself for the first six months while you explore the city and somewhere you will feel safe wondering about by yourself.
 
If you know New York City, Puerto Madero reminds me of Battery Park City, which was built on landfill just west of where the World Trade Center used to stand, back in the late 1980s / early 1990s. At first there were all of these nice new buildings but far from the center of town and with few amenities. Puerto Madero is nice but it's also new and doesn't have lots of shops and services. They do have a couple of nice small delis and informal restaurants though and it's about a 15 minute walk to calle florida and the galerias pacifico mall. So not isolated but kind of off on it's own.
 
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