Paraguayan/Bolivian food

cricri58

Registered
I traveled in Bolivia last summer and was positively surprised and delighted to taste Bolivian food from the altiplano.
I am curious to experience the Paraguayan cuisine too. I suspect there are restaurants in off the beaten tracks barrios (Constitucion, Liniers..) where very few dare to go in search of good food. Though there are run down areas, any tips would be appreciated...
 

emilyr

Registered
I have never tried Bolivian food, either, but I am definitely looking forward to visiting Bolivia over Navidad and trying out some of the great food and learning some tips from the suegra! My boyfriend is from La Paz and has lived here 12 years, so I asked him for some tips on finding Bolivian food in Buenos Aires.

He points out that wherever you go, it will not be the same because the ingredients don´t have the exact same flavors as Bolivia, so wherever you go, even a Bolivian restaurant, will just be a re-creation.

Barrio Bajo Flores has a huge number of Bolivian immigrants, so Flores is a great place to go for lunch. But Flores can be not a very lindo lugar at night. He pointed out that a lot of the Bolivian restaurants are run by Bolivians and are good as in have good food but are not big on ambiente, as in atmosphere. They are a far cry from the trendy places in Palermo Soho. You might not find any English speakers there because these places are Bolivian food places made for Bolivian people, not catering to tourists, but it sounds like you are up for just such a place!

He knows of a decent place in Flores at the intersection of San Pedrito and Alberdi (which would be Alberdi somewhere between 2800 and 2700-ask any verdulero, a person working at a vegetable store, where the Bolivian restaurant is there) that he thinks might be called Pancitos based on a web search (he says that one is a little more upscale in terms of the atmosphere if it´s still around) as well as one we found on the BA tourism website in Flores called Penélope at Avenida Nazca 55. I also found onlye a restaurant called "Illimani" in Liniers neighborhood (which is the mountain right next to La Paz) address Rivadavia 10960 and "La Paceña" in the Belgrano neighborhood, address Echeverria 2570.

Warning: these are places I have not tried myself but found on the web and from talking with the beau.

Good luck! I may be venturing right behind you soon.
Emily
 

Bairesgirl

Registered
My friend Layne Mosler was a food critic, (she went back to the states some monts ago) She wrote the following in her SAE weekly column last year

Are you desperate for chili peppers? In search of Andean herbs? Up for a gustatory adventure? Hop on a bus to Liniers, on the city's western border, and prepare for sensory overload as you enter Buenos Aires' little Bolivia. To the soundtrack of competing cumbias, street vendors hawk humitas (sweet corn tamales), chipá (cheese bread made with manioc flour), cilantro, chamomile flowers, and yerba buena (spearmint). The produce stands lining José León Suárez street sell huacatay (black mint) and dried chilis, including the ají amarillo and rocoto that figure prominently in many Andean dishes. After you pick up your goodies, stop by Bar Restaurant Jamuy for some peanut soup or head around the corner to Ranchis for Bolivian-style empanadas called salteñas (the sweet/savoury beef version is out of this world). Who said eating in Buenos Aires was boring?

Jamuy - Jose Leon Suarez 149 - Liniers
Ranchis - Ibarrola 7239 - Liniers
Buses:#28 and #106stop nearby

Note: It is not advisable to go to Liniers after dark
 
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