So I've been coming to Bs. As. for more than five years. My first visit was to meet my future in-laws, which means that I was more "aware" of how things worked here. I had locals show me the ropes, and told me to keep my eyes open for this and that. Of course, there were certain things that I learned on my own, and I'd like to share some of those things here for present and future newbies to Bs. As.
The impetus for this was the spate of recent postings along the lines of: "Hey, I'm new to Bs. As." or "I'm moving to Bs. As. soon; what should I know?". So I thought I'd put a list together of things I've learned over the years that might help the transition into life here.
Please note: this isn't a "Bs. As. Sucks" list. I'm not looking to pick a fight, nor cast aspersions. These are not criticisms; they're just things to be aware of and, oftentimes, spotlight differences in our cultures; differences that newbies might not know about and/or have difficulty getting used to. What's more, this isn't a comprehensive list. Please feel free to add to it.
WATCH FOR DOG BOMBS
These turd piles are found gracing the sidewalks throughout Bs. As. Even though the sidewalks are much cleaner than they were when I first starting coming here, there are turdlets everywhere. Some are the size of small houses and are hard to miss; others blend in with the shade. Keep your eyes open.
BE CAREFUL ON WET SIDEWALKS
If you like to wear flipflops (as I do) or sandals during the summer, be very careful. Many of the sidewalks here are made of marble, which becomes extremely slippery when wet. When this happens, you can — and most likely will — go flying.
SIDEWALK ETIQUETTE
Continuing the sidewalk thread, the concept of walking on the right isn't observed very much here. You'll probably notice that people will keep walking toward you and will only move at the very last minute...if they move at all.
TRASHY
Public spaces (sidewalks, streets, buses, etc.) are also giant garbage cans. People just toss stuff on the ground or floor.
RIGHT OF WAY
Those nicely painted white stripes in the street (otherwise known as crosswalks) do not apply to drivers. Legally, cars — or their drivers — are supposed to stop and let you cross. Good luck with that one.
RECYCLE THIS
If you're green and care about recycling, separate your paper and plastic as you would at home. Then throw it all away with the trash. That's because, sadly, recycling isn't common here. I've heard, though, that the cartaneros grab bottles, glass, etc. and bring it to recycling centers for cash. Hope that's true. (Can anyone confirm this?)
KEEP THE CHANGE
There's a simple rule when someone in a store asks you if you have change: lie. It's not as difficult these days as it used to be, but getting change (smaller bills and coins) is an everyday fight. Fortunately, with the introduction of the SUBE card, coins aren't as necessary (assuming you have a SUBE card), but it's certainly handy to have about 500 pounds worth of coins and smaller bills stored in your apartment for emergencies.
GET A RECEIPT — ALWAYS
Always ask for a bill in a store or restaurant, the latter being quite important. I've had a few occasions when a waiter simply made up the total, and when I asked for the bill, that totally magically shrank...and shrank further when I pressed for the bill. Also, establishments are required by law to provide you with the bill. So get one, and check it to make sure what you ordered is the only stuff listed.
QUE TRUCHO
Speaking of money, be sure to check the bills you get, especially if they're larger denominations (e.g. 100-peso bills). There's been a rash of fake bills making their way through the city (and possibly the country?). Tell-tale signs are faded colors, thicker-than-normal paper and the lack of the silver strip that you'll find on all 50- and 100-peso notes (on the left side of the bill, with the face of the honoree facing you). What's more, bills have watermarks on them (with the face of the stud gracing the front of the bill).
IT'S YOUR MONEY
Don't let cabbies keep the change they owe you. For example, if the total fare is 20.70, and you give the driver 21 pesos, you get back either 25 or 30 centavos†. If you want to let the driver keep the change (Argentines don't tip cabbies), that's your decision, not the driver's.
†Argentine cabbies deserve a lot of credit; it's the only place I've been where the drivers tip you. How's that? Well, using the example above, if the driver doesn't have 25-30 centavos to give as change, more often than not, you'll get back 50 centavos. The driver is actually giving you more change than you're owed. And for the record, the majority of cabbies I've met are very honest and enjoy a good charla intima.
TIPO TIME
Time is an abstract concept here. If you make plans with someone (local, that is) for 4:00, you can usually expect that person to arrive late, which is punctual by Bs. As. standards. Don't bother trying to shame the person; you'll only look like an idiot. If, however, you happen to find a punctual local, shower praise on said individual and get him/her drunk. Often.
PONELE
"Yes" means "Maybe." As I've heard quite often in business, until you have something signed and sealed, "Yes" doesn't mean "Yes." The same holds true here. "Yes," like time, is an abstract term. "Yes, let's get together," really means: "Chase me, bitch, I'm not making this easy for you." Don't get frustrated; be persistent, until you get bored...then drop 'em like a bad habit. But above all, don't take it personally. Some of the best friends I have here made me chase them; now I return the favor.
BUSTED
If you take the bus, it's sometimes (oftentimes) extremely difficult to find where the stops are. They're not always (oftentimes) labeled very clearly. In fact, you might see the label for the bus stop affixed to a pole that's leaning at an angle parallel to the street. If you're not sure where the stop is, just ask. People are very nice and helpful and usually they have a very good sense of where the stops actually are.
Continuing the bus theme, if you're waiting alone for a bus, and you see the bus coming, be sure to wave it down. Sometimes you REALLY have to wave (i.e. light off fireworks). I had a bus blow right past me (and it was in service), even though I was clearly flagging it down. I didn't take it personally; the same thing happened a few days later to a Porteño who tried to flag down a bus, only to watch it fly right by.
The impetus for this was the spate of recent postings along the lines of: "Hey, I'm new to Bs. As." or "I'm moving to Bs. As. soon; what should I know?". So I thought I'd put a list together of things I've learned over the years that might help the transition into life here.
Please note: this isn't a "Bs. As. Sucks" list. I'm not looking to pick a fight, nor cast aspersions. These are not criticisms; they're just things to be aware of and, oftentimes, spotlight differences in our cultures; differences that newbies might not know about and/or have difficulty getting used to. What's more, this isn't a comprehensive list. Please feel free to add to it.
WATCH FOR DOG BOMBS
These turd piles are found gracing the sidewalks throughout Bs. As. Even though the sidewalks are much cleaner than they were when I first starting coming here, there are turdlets everywhere. Some are the size of small houses and are hard to miss; others blend in with the shade. Keep your eyes open.
BE CAREFUL ON WET SIDEWALKS
If you like to wear flipflops (as I do) or sandals during the summer, be very careful. Many of the sidewalks here are made of marble, which becomes extremely slippery when wet. When this happens, you can — and most likely will — go flying.
SIDEWALK ETIQUETTE
Continuing the sidewalk thread, the concept of walking on the right isn't observed very much here. You'll probably notice that people will keep walking toward you and will only move at the very last minute...if they move at all.
TRASHY
Public spaces (sidewalks, streets, buses, etc.) are also giant garbage cans. People just toss stuff on the ground or floor.
RIGHT OF WAY
Those nicely painted white stripes in the street (otherwise known as crosswalks) do not apply to drivers. Legally, cars — or their drivers — are supposed to stop and let you cross. Good luck with that one.
RECYCLE THIS
If you're green and care about recycling, separate your paper and plastic as you would at home. Then throw it all away with the trash. That's because, sadly, recycling isn't common here. I've heard, though, that the cartaneros grab bottles, glass, etc. and bring it to recycling centers for cash. Hope that's true. (Can anyone confirm this?)
KEEP THE CHANGE
There's a simple rule when someone in a store asks you if you have change: lie. It's not as difficult these days as it used to be, but getting change (smaller bills and coins) is an everyday fight. Fortunately, with the introduction of the SUBE card, coins aren't as necessary (assuming you have a SUBE card), but it's certainly handy to have about 500 pounds worth of coins and smaller bills stored in your apartment for emergencies.
GET A RECEIPT — ALWAYS
Always ask for a bill in a store or restaurant, the latter being quite important. I've had a few occasions when a waiter simply made up the total, and when I asked for the bill, that totally magically shrank...and shrank further when I pressed for the bill. Also, establishments are required by law to provide you with the bill. So get one, and check it to make sure what you ordered is the only stuff listed.
QUE TRUCHO
Speaking of money, be sure to check the bills you get, especially if they're larger denominations (e.g. 100-peso bills). There's been a rash of fake bills making their way through the city (and possibly the country?). Tell-tale signs are faded colors, thicker-than-normal paper and the lack of the silver strip that you'll find on all 50- and 100-peso notes (on the left side of the bill, with the face of the honoree facing you). What's more, bills have watermarks on them (with the face of the stud gracing the front of the bill).
IT'S YOUR MONEY
Don't let cabbies keep the change they owe you. For example, if the total fare is 20.70, and you give the driver 21 pesos, you get back either 25 or 30 centavos†. If you want to let the driver keep the change (Argentines don't tip cabbies), that's your decision, not the driver's.
†Argentine cabbies deserve a lot of credit; it's the only place I've been where the drivers tip you. How's that? Well, using the example above, if the driver doesn't have 25-30 centavos to give as change, more often than not, you'll get back 50 centavos. The driver is actually giving you more change than you're owed. And for the record, the majority of cabbies I've met are very honest and enjoy a good charla intima.
TIPO TIME
Time is an abstract concept here. If you make plans with someone (local, that is) for 4:00, you can usually expect that person to arrive late, which is punctual by Bs. As. standards. Don't bother trying to shame the person; you'll only look like an idiot. If, however, you happen to find a punctual local, shower praise on said individual and get him/her drunk. Often.
PONELE
"Yes" means "Maybe." As I've heard quite often in business, until you have something signed and sealed, "Yes" doesn't mean "Yes." The same holds true here. "Yes," like time, is an abstract term. "Yes, let's get together," really means: "Chase me, bitch, I'm not making this easy for you." Don't get frustrated; be persistent, until you get bored...then drop 'em like a bad habit. But above all, don't take it personally. Some of the best friends I have here made me chase them; now I return the favor.
BUSTED
If you take the bus, it's sometimes (oftentimes) extremely difficult to find where the stops are. They're not always (oftentimes) labeled very clearly. In fact, you might see the label for the bus stop affixed to a pole that's leaning at an angle parallel to the street. If you're not sure where the stop is, just ask. People are very nice and helpful and usually they have a very good sense of where the stops actually are.
Continuing the bus theme, if you're waiting alone for a bus, and you see the bus coming, be sure to wave it down. Sometimes you REALLY have to wave (i.e. light off fireworks). I had a bus blow right past me (and it was in service), even though I was clearly flagging it down. I didn't take it personally; the same thing happened a few days later to a Porteño who tried to flag down a bus, only to watch it fly right by.
