Train to Tucuman et al.

[GuyinBA]

So, we're thinking of going up to Northern Argentina in early May with kids in tow and have started doing some initial research. One of the things that has caught my eye is the slow train to Tucuman. Yes it's 24 hours +, perhaps, but I kind of like the idea of doing something different, seeing the country in a different way before we need to return Stateside in a sleeper (camarote) car. Has anyone ever actually DONE this or know someone who has? We'd then like to rent a car from Tucuman and over a week or so see Tafi del Valle, Cachi, Cafayate, Quebrada de Humahuaca, Pumarmaca, maybe the Salares, and, of course, the surrounding areas. Thanks, guys.

 

[RichardP]

I took the train to Tucuman quite a few years back. I didn't know it was still running. It might not be too luxurious, but it's certainly a different way to travel if that's your goal. If my memory serves me, there was no air conditioning or water on the train and it was dusty and hot.

 

[solerboy]

I took the train to Tucuman quite a few years back. I didn't know it was still running. It might not be too luxurious, but it's certainly a different way to travel if that's your goal. If my memory serves me, there was no air conditioning or water on the train and it was dusty and hot.

Can you pay with SUBE ?

 

[surfing]

I was tempted to do the same until I learned about the plastic guards they put over the windows to protect from rock throwing. Apparently they become practically opaque during the trip and you can't see out the windows --- which is a deal breaker for me.

 

[captainmcd]

I made this and other trips by rail to Cordoba, Mendoza, Bahia Blanca, and places in between with my family, but all those trips were over ten years ago. Now that long distance train travel has returned, I am not sure about the quality. I understand that other than the Mar Platense all the rolling stock is the same. In any event we enjoyed the trips, we were in no hurry, got to talk to a lot of people, the kids could walk around and did not mind the long trip, and loved the dining car. I understand that reservations are hard to come by, but if you can get them, go for it!

 

[surfing]

Here is a picture of the train window from a trip report:

http://cs.trains.com/TRCCS/cfs-file...logFiles/fred-frailey/4617.cordoba_2D00_1.jpg

And here is the full report:

http://cs.trains.com/TRCCS/blogs/fr.../29/seduced-by-anticipation-of-adventure.aspx

 

[voyagingknoxvillian]

I have taken the train from Cordoba to Villa Maria (about 4 hours south via train) a few times in the last few years. My general impression was that it is not as comfortable or as smooth a ride as Amtrak, in the USA (my only other train experience). The view is much more interesting than the auto pista, but in large cities you will see many "villa" type homes close to the tracks.

If you decide to take the train to Tucuman, definitely go for the first class seats or the sleeper rooms. These sell out quickly.

The regular class seats don't lean back at all, and you face your neighbors, ie, two people sit face to face with two other people. Depending on who you sit by, this can lead to an interesting conversation or being stared at for the duration of your trip. The regular class seats are also not assigned, so get to the station early for a good seat.

In my experience, the train seems to take double the amount of time to reach the destination that a "directo" bus does.

Suerte!

 

[JamesKTusa]

I took the 25+ hour train Retiro-Tucumán last May 2011 to attend the 80th birthday of my second cousin there. Went with my girlfriend, we're in our 50's and we 'splurged' on a camarote (private compartment with bunkbeds & a sink). Although the price on-line was ~750 pesos (1-way), I went to the ticket window inside Retiro train station (at the very end, toward Libertador) a few days prior and got an unpublished promo price of ~540 pesos, for TWO people, including breakfast. In the dining car we spent another ~75 pesos each for lunch & dinner, which were decent, not bad but not great. The green train departs ~9:30am every 2-3 days (check the schedule in-person).

The train rarely arrives on time (ours was 2 hours late), but we weren't in any hurry. Was fun for the first 16-20 hours, we were able to sleep fine during the night, but those last few hours really dragged. They've got electricity in the camarote so you can recharge your PC/phone/etc. Yes the plastic window protection was a bit foggy & scratched in places but in truth the view was fine. It's fun to wander around and admire the view from different perspectives, plenty of porters & train employees so we didn't feel unsafe. The shared bathrooms on each car got a bit raunchy after 16 hours, and yes, their were occasional roaches (small, discrete & rather well-behaved). The camarote might feel tight for more than 2 people, and the kids might get really stircrazy depending on their ages. Yes you see lots of country but there were no "on-off" privileges during the many brief stops, hence not much interaction.

Would I do it again? Probably not, but it was a fun 1-time adventure. My relatives & friends here thought I/we were crazy due to the duration. I've taken overnight microbuses as well and they're definitely easier, faster, but more expensive (especially the full 'camas' with 180-degree seats). You might also check for airfare promos which approach the busfare, especially with the little airline 'Andean' that only goes to Salta. (BTW I've routinely paid the 'Nacional' price buying and checking-in online in/out of Aeroparque, using my USA passport number-1 digit as DNI, but it's a risk so be prepared to pay the difference).

Suerte!

 

[surfing]

Thanks -- that's a great report although just thinking about the bathrooms not being cleaned for that many hours kind of makes me queasy!

 

[trennod]

Depending on whether you are hell bent on the train option, I would highly recommend taking a cama bus there. It is definitely more expensive than the bus (from memory, I paid around $350-$400 pesos just over a year ago, 1 way Retiro_-Tuc) however is extremely comfortable, seats go all way back and there is plenty of space. The buses are rarely full and so often you will have the seat next to you available as well. I caught the night bus, arrived in about 14 hours and included 2 modest meals (dinner and breakfast).