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One other detail about the passport replacement, there is a guy in a white van with "servicio" on the doors around the corner from the American Embassy. He has a Polaroid camera and charges US $10 for passport photos, ready in less than a minute.

We were walking in the capital district, around 6:30 pm, still plenty of light out. We passed under a balcony, and something dripped onto my hair. Instantly, a smiling Argentine woman appeared from behind me, offering paper towels, and acting like it was important to get the gray drippings out...