JG asked for observations on the smoking ban. Today I was in La Biela, the famous cafe in front of the Recoleta Cemetery. What I saw was better than I could ever have imagined: smokers have been relegated to a very small corner of the vast coffee house. A glass partition (the glass has yet to be installed but I was assured it was on its way) separates smokers from the rest. Think of movies in which family and friends visit prisoners - the room looks like that! Not only is La Biela complying with the letter of the law, they are helping to deter smoking by making those who still smoke feel marginalized, not the other way around. Hats off to La Biela!