I've ridden just about every railway line in the country that has had passenger service in the past 20 + years. I doubt many expats can say that. In general train service is poor in Argentina, where it even exists. I have not followed Ferrocentral's situation over the last couple of years however the last time I rode the train to Cordoba from BA the service was good. A bit too much heat in my compartment and not particularly appetizing food in the dining-car however the train was clean, the sleepering-car compartment had a comfortable bed with fresh sheets and blanket, pillow. There was a wash basin in the room with tolietries. The attendant, like all the crew members, was young and helpful. The "Pullman" (top class chair car in Argentina) looked as though it was in excellent conditon. As I said, I have not ridden this train in 2-3 years so I can not say how it is now but at that time it was fine and I took it several times. The same for the train to Tucuman which is run by the same company. The company that runs trains to the Coast is apparently being reorganized. Since the days of Duhalde as governor, the trains were run by the Provincve of BA and the service was highly unreliable. The only possible exception was the Marplatense, a stainless steel luxury train (in the late 1940's when it was constructed by Philadelphia's Budd Company!) that has run on this line since Peron was in power. Thatm train still runs but I believe on a seasonal schedule. There is a new Talgo train, well a throwaway train from Spain, that also runs to Mar del Plata. You're always taking a risk when you ride trains in Argentina - all sorts of things can happen but it is an adventure and in some cases preferable to a bus. As for the decline, it began when the state ran Ferrocarriles Argentinos, a massive employer of useless people who collected their pay and did nothing for the most part. Some never even shopwed up for work. I rode the train from BA to Cordoba in this era when it was run by the state and it was the worst operation I have ever ever seen -- far better trains ran at that time in Mexico and India. Once Menem took power most long distance passenger service, by that time horrbly degraded, was terminated. It's quite true that truckers benefited and to this day block any serious efforts to make rail vialbe. Sadly nestor Kirchner often spoke of his desire to revive the railways however other than reinitiate a few lines with miserable service, he did nothing not has his wife. A few lines have been reopened but they get ramshackle equipment with such deteriorated track that they can not provide anything approaching reliable service. it's pathetic but that is the way it is. Pity as reviving the railways could create a lot of jobs while rebuilding the infrastructure.
About the plastic wndows the previous poster mentioned: That is due to all the rock throwng at the train. In fact last time I saw the train at Retiro it looked as though the train had had a bad case of scarring acne as there were marks everywhere due to rocks being thrown. I've ridden in the locomotives a couple of times where drivers have protective shields due this problem. A shame. Glad to hear that food is OK on the Cordoba train. I found it pretty bad but I guess it's better. The train has now been around for more than two years, by the way.