Where are the coolest parts of Argentina?

[steveinbsas]

I also wonder what kind of "counter culture" the OP could expect to find in rural Argentina.

The vast majority of today's Argentine youth embrace the Argentine culture as much as their parents and grandparents.

There's no reason to move to rural Argentina unless you want to fully embrace it's "established" culture.

 

[perry]

Yeah, and what about the amazing international food scene?

Given the fresh fruit and vegetables, El Bolsón’s food exceeds expectations, though it lacks sophistication. Be sure to give up one lunch in favor of snacking at Plaza Pagano’s Feria Artesanal.

Note that most places in Bolsón stay open all day, serving breakfast, lunch, and dinner.

La Salteñita (Avenida Belgrano 515, tel. 02944/49-3749) serves spicy northern empanadas for takeaway. Mitski Cocoa (San Martín 2526, tel. 02944/49-1878) is an ideal breakfast spot for succulent croissants and hot chocolate.
Boulevard (San Martín and Pablo Hube) has morphed into a hybrid Irish-style pub and pizzeria. Otto Tipp (Isla Malvinas and Roca, tel. 02944/49-3700) is more stylishly Teutonic, with free beer samples in addition to pastas and pizzas.
Martín Sheffield (Avenida San Martín 2740, tel. 02944/49-1920) is a welcome presence, with cooked-to-order chicken, Patagonian trout, and lamb, plus local beer on tap. Unusual for Argentina, especially for this part of Argentina, it even prepares credible Mexican tacos.
Packed for dinner, Il Rizzo (Avenida San Martín 2599, tel. 02944/49-1380) is for pizza and pasta. Carlitos (Avenida San Martín 3410, tel. 02944/45-5654) is a parrilla.
Several places have failed in its location, but Pasiones Argentinas (Avenida Belgrano and Beruti, tel. 02944/48-3616) seems off to a good start with a diversity of pizzas (including game toppings such as venison and wild boar), and more elaborate versions of standards such as bife de chorizo. Most entrées fall in the US$6–10 range. It has occasional live jazz or rock bands on weekends.

Jauja (San Martín 2867, tel. 02944/49-2448, US$10–20) may have slipped a notch, but it’s still the best in town. Vivid flower arrangements set the stage for succulent pastas such as gnocchi with a garlic cream sauce, vegetarian dishes such as milanesa de soja (breaded soybean steak), trout with a creamy almond sauce, outstanding homemade bread, and local brews. It’s tobacco-free noon–4 p.m. and 8 p.m.–midnight only.
Ignore Jauja’s in-house desserts, and step just outside to

Helados Jauja, one of the country’s top ice creameries, with an almost paralyzing choice of nearly 60 inventive flavors. The author’s longstanding favorite is mate cocido con tres de azúcar (boiled and slightly sweetened mate), though even some Argentines blanch at consuming their favorite bitter infusion in frozen form. Chocolate profundo, a bittersweet chocolate mousse, is also interesting.

 

[DontMindMe]

Where are the hot spots, the cultural hubs, places of immense natural beauty (and hot springs!) places where you could eat some amazing international food if you were just dying for it, diverse music and nightlife scene, creative pulse, intellectuals, counter culture, access to natural foods, etc.?

People already mentioned California and Colorado. I will add Austin, TX to the list.

Some of the first things people complain about when living in Argentina, even in BA, are a lack of diversity--in people, food, music, and I would even say in nightlife although I'm sure some will disagree with the last two listed. But, there is certainly immense natural beauty here if you're willing to sacrifice a lot of the other things you're looking for.

People here are more concerned about paying the bills and not getting robbed (at least in Capital) than forming a counterculture or getting into organic cooking.

 

[Jcyordenana]

For those who have hope/interest/nothing better to do, there's a conscious consumption week coming up in November:

http://www.convidaverde.com.ar/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=204&Itemid=44

I don't know enough about Argentina to make suggestions about where to look, but it's definitely been my experience so far that the culture being referred to here (which is actually not the counterculture but rather closer to the mainstream in SF and Boulder, at least among the middle classes) is hard to find, but is happening in small pockets, probably more in the capital than in the rural areas.

I'm not so sure it's just about having difficulty and paying bills and fear of crime. Of course poverty and security are bigger problems here, and of course the more one has to worry about basic needs the less time, energy and awareness one might have for advocating for social change with regards to the environment or food chain and so forth, but there are plenty of people in the US who live quite comfortably who also have no interest in these issues, at least in an active sense, even in places like SF and Boulder, so lack of money and security can't be the only reason.

It would be interesting to have more of a discussion about this topic, hopefully without devolving into attacks on Boulder/SF/wherever liberals or Argentines or anyone else for that matter. (I can dream, can't I? )

 

[Napoleon]

I have to admit that I was chuckling as I was reading the Original Poster's list of requirements.

I was thinking "You've GOT to be f***ing kidding me!"

Then I thought "Well you're going to be looking for a h*** of a long time if those are your requirements."

Then I thought "Have you even done any research about Argentina at all?"

I haven't been to El Bolson, but a casual acquaintance has posted an absolutely amazing photo of her standing next to a stream with a partially snow covered mountain in the background that looks so perfect that it looks fake... Oh hell, here it is:

So maybe here, but I don't know if you can find all of those requirements in the entire country of Argentina, much less in one town. Wow.

 

[steveinbsas]

If I didn't mind bing cold (I abhor it) and didn't want to be able to grow and harvest my own vegetables and fruit (including citrus year round)...as well as raise chickens (for the eggs)...I might seriously consider moving to El Bolsón.

It is breathtakingly beautiful...but still 1000 Km from where I live:

http://distancecalculator.globefeed...9666667&fromlng=-62.0833333&tolng=-71.5166667

If you download "google earth" you can "fly" there now.

http://www.google.com/earth/index.html

Buen viaje!

 

[marksoc]

South of El Bolson (some 20 km from there) there is a valley which is still mostly virgin and land there should be cheaper or more available. It is called Epuyen. Still, winter is REALLY cold down there.

 

[jevalove]

From what I have seen, BA is amazingly diverse in people, food, and music, and i'd even venture to say it's one of the coolest cities I've lived in (and I've lived all over the world) not to mention it's exploding (in some ways more than Boulder, mind you) with organic, gluten-free bars, restaurants, bakeries, health foods stores etc, has a super cool indoor farmers market, lots of trendy chic healthy cafes, I mean, I'm blown away by BA.

The key is finding it... and I am starting to find it... and would love to meet other expats who would have fun sharing the cool things they've found, both in BA and in Argentina. Send me a message if this is you!

 

[jevalove]

Thanks everyone for all your thoughtful responses to my questions!

Sounds like El Bolson and Mendoza have the most votes. I will definitely check them out.

I am also curious about areas north of Cordoba. And ecopueblos/ecovillages and sustainable communities are very interesting to us, so if you know of anything, I'd love to hear about it!