Hi artigas & MorganF,
I've been cycling throughout Cap.Fed for 2+ years, typically 3-5 times a week on streets and sometimes bikepaths. I can't recommend a particular bikeshop but instead want to pass on some general pointers:
- Tires. Buy fat, at least 2 inches, ideally with some kind of puncture protection. I now prefer "city tires" over off-road knobbies for maneuverability and lower friction. I arrived here as an experienced 'century' road-biker and initially used higher-pressure 80-100psi skinny roadbike tires and got all beat-up from vibration on the many rough roads and cobblestone around the city. Now I use Schwalbe "Big Apple" balloon tires with Kevlar puncture-protection and absolutely love them. Expensive, bought in the States.
- Suspension & brakes. It's tempting to buy a bike with front shock-absorbing suspension, but I recommend "NO". They're heavier and less maneuverable when (not if) that taxi cuts you off, or pedestrian jumps out of nowhere before looking. You're not going off-roading, look for best maneuverability and stopping power, keep it lightweight. My novia insisted on front suspension and paid the price with a broken kneecap when she fell, 'twas possibly avoidable with better maneuverability. Also, although foldable bikes are the new rage ("de moda") here, beware they can get quite pricey, attract more attention, and are just as easily stolen if you don't always fold and carry (which starts happening in month #2!).
- Knowledge. Learn/use the city bikepaths and traffic patterns. Avoid rush-hour, but if you can't, use those bikepaths and less-busy streets--I love Libertador Av. except during rush-hour. Use helmet, blinky lights (esp. at dusk), and dress as brightly & visibly as possible--you can never be too visible. Use a bell to warn the many pedestrians who are 'inattentive' or, as Porteño taxpayers feel entitled to hog the bikepaths. Learn the train lines & stops--you can always jump on a 'furgon' wagon with your bike, especially handy with sudden rains. Buy/read a good urban-biking book e.g. "Urban Bikers' Tricks & Tips" by Dave Glowacz. And by all means use both a cable/chain and a 'U-Bar' lock but don't rely on them for long-periods--I pay the 2-4 peso fee to park in the attended parking areas all over the city.
- Culture. Finally, I think the cycling culture here is like that of any big USA city (except possibly Portland OR. & Minneapolis MN) in that the drivers will bully you and/or be distracted and not see you, so you have to adopt an "assertive" city riding style when/if you want to venture off the bikepaths. Use that back-blinky light and watch out for colectivos pulling out, slow-trolling taxis, and pedestrians with cellphones & ipods. Biking here is a form of Darwinian selection and not for the faint-hearted!
Good luck!
Jim