senorsuitcase
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With the notable exception of tinned tuna sushi and a slew of forgettable pizzas, we’ve enjoyed all of the food here. However, there are a few stand-out items on the menu del pais that demand to be eaten. None of them are green. All of them go with Malbec. And if you know anywhere else where we can find sparkling examples of these Edible Wonders, please let us know.
So, if you only put eight things in your face during your visit, make sure it’s…
Choripan
The recipe’s in the name. ‘Chori’ refers to the chorizo, the sausage as thick as a baby’s arm that nestles inside the ‘pan’, approximately a yard of white baguette. That’s the basic formula, to which you add chimichurri (herb-based condiment) and a garnish of chopped onion/tomato/leaf if you’re on a diet. Conversation is generally suspended for at least 15 minutes while you eat it, and for a further four hours while you sleep it off.
Where…Street parrillas on the Costanera Sur (the places with taxis parked nearby are the best, so they say), Choripan Man in San Telmo market
Provoleta
Unlike the more needy fondue, breaded mozzarella or baked camembert, provoleta asks for no accompaniment. And it gets none. It’s just melted cheese that, thanks to some dark art of the cheese gods, inexplicably retains its disc shape. Ask for it ‘bien cocido’ so it’s crispy on the outside and gooey inside. Hear that faint whimpering in your chest? That’s your heart.
Where… Don Julio, Lo de Mi Hermano, La Choza, Miranda
Entraña
It might be difficult to get past big-hitting, pumped up headliners like Bife de Chorizo and Bife de Lomo on the parrilla menu, but those who want to eat like locals delve down into its further reaches. What the humble entraña (skirt steak) lacks in the looks department it makes us for with an intense cow-y hit that appeals to full-time carnivores. Just add wine.
Where…La Choza, La Cabrera, Lalo (Helpful post on where to eat various cow cuts from http://www.saltshaker.net/restaurant-reviews/the-ultimate-parrillada)
Empanadas
Like the sexy Latin cousin of the geeky Cornish pasty, empanadas stick rigidly to the tried-and-tested “pastry + fat = genius” formula . ‘Spicy’ meat is a banker (expect a spice level akin to a sausage roll) but go for a friskier leek & Roquefort if it’s a special occasion.
Where…La Cupertina, Cumen Cumen, Lo de Mi Hermano, Bar Federal
Mojellas
As you might be aware from earlier dispatches, we’ve had a good old rummage through the cow parts. Sweetbreads – or mollejas – might seem a little ‘earthy’ at home, but lined up next to the intestines, kidneys and blood sausage, this is Offal Lite. No tubes or toughness, no tang of iron. We don’t even know what they do. Large squeeze of lemon later, and we don’t much care.
Where… La Cabrera, Lalo
Jamon y queso tostadas
If the no-frills Argentinian approach to cuisine could be summed up in one sandwich, this would be it. No rosemary foccacia. No black rye, seeded batch, bloomer, sourdough or anything else. Just thin stripes of white bread, pink ham and yellow cheese. Briefly toasted, then run over by a passing colectivo.
Where…Everywhere! We like Bar Federal for portion size, Volta for crispness.
Ice Cream
Every country thinks its ice cream is the best. But how can they compete? Argentina has more cows than people and more ice than cows. Put them together and you make frozen cows. Or, more often than not, The Best Ice Cream In The World ™. Add Dulce de Leche into the mix and you’ve got a one-way ticket to helado heaven.
Where…Jauja (for Dulce de Leche), locals love Freddo but swear by Volta. Tufic is our favourite local (try the mascarpone con frutos rojos).
Panqueque con Dulce de Leche
‘Pan-keh-keh’ is almost as fun to say as it is to eat. It’s essentially a folded pancake cushion stuffed with enough caramel to drown a squirrel. We usually order a taxi at the same time.
Where…Miranda
---------
More words, videos and photos at www.senorsuitcase.com
www.twitter.com/senorsuitcase
So, if you only put eight things in your face during your visit, make sure it’s…
Choripan
The recipe’s in the name. ‘Chori’ refers to the chorizo, the sausage as thick as a baby’s arm that nestles inside the ‘pan’, approximately a yard of white baguette. That’s the basic formula, to which you add chimichurri (herb-based condiment) and a garnish of chopped onion/tomato/leaf if you’re on a diet. Conversation is generally suspended for at least 15 minutes while you eat it, and for a further four hours while you sleep it off.
Where…Street parrillas on the Costanera Sur (the places with taxis parked nearby are the best, so they say), Choripan Man in San Telmo market
Provoleta
Unlike the more needy fondue, breaded mozzarella or baked camembert, provoleta asks for no accompaniment. And it gets none. It’s just melted cheese that, thanks to some dark art of the cheese gods, inexplicably retains its disc shape. Ask for it ‘bien cocido’ so it’s crispy on the outside and gooey inside. Hear that faint whimpering in your chest? That’s your heart.
Where… Don Julio, Lo de Mi Hermano, La Choza, Miranda
Entraña
It might be difficult to get past big-hitting, pumped up headliners like Bife de Chorizo and Bife de Lomo on the parrilla menu, but those who want to eat like locals delve down into its further reaches. What the humble entraña (skirt steak) lacks in the looks department it makes us for with an intense cow-y hit that appeals to full-time carnivores. Just add wine.
Where…La Choza, La Cabrera, Lalo (Helpful post on where to eat various cow cuts from http://www.saltshaker.net/restaurant-reviews/the-ultimate-parrillada)
Empanadas
Like the sexy Latin cousin of the geeky Cornish pasty, empanadas stick rigidly to the tried-and-tested “pastry + fat = genius” formula . ‘Spicy’ meat is a banker (expect a spice level akin to a sausage roll) but go for a friskier leek & Roquefort if it’s a special occasion.
Where…La Cupertina, Cumen Cumen, Lo de Mi Hermano, Bar Federal
Mojellas
As you might be aware from earlier dispatches, we’ve had a good old rummage through the cow parts. Sweetbreads – or mollejas – might seem a little ‘earthy’ at home, but lined up next to the intestines, kidneys and blood sausage, this is Offal Lite. No tubes or toughness, no tang of iron. We don’t even know what they do. Large squeeze of lemon later, and we don’t much care.
Where… La Cabrera, Lalo
Jamon y queso tostadas
If the no-frills Argentinian approach to cuisine could be summed up in one sandwich, this would be it. No rosemary foccacia. No black rye, seeded batch, bloomer, sourdough or anything else. Just thin stripes of white bread, pink ham and yellow cheese. Briefly toasted, then run over by a passing colectivo.
Where…Everywhere! We like Bar Federal for portion size, Volta for crispness.
Ice Cream
Every country thinks its ice cream is the best. But how can they compete? Argentina has more cows than people and more ice than cows. Put them together and you make frozen cows. Or, more often than not, The Best Ice Cream In The World ™. Add Dulce de Leche into the mix and you’ve got a one-way ticket to helado heaven.
Where…Jauja (for Dulce de Leche), locals love Freddo but swear by Volta. Tufic is our favourite local (try the mascarpone con frutos rojos).
Panqueque con Dulce de Leche
‘Pan-keh-keh’ is almost as fun to say as it is to eat. It’s essentially a folded pancake cushion stuffed with enough caramel to drown a squirrel. We usually order a taxi at the same time.
Where…Miranda
---------
More words, videos and photos at www.senorsuitcase.com
www.twitter.com/senorsuitcase
