Returning To Buenos Aires For Vacation After 5 Years

sgarlow

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I lived in Buenos Aires in 2011-2012 (I used this forum back then) and will be back for a week this month. What's changed that I should know about?

- No more exchanging dollars on the black market right? I can withdraw from ATMs.
- Taxi Ezeiza still operates from the airport.
- What else? What new restaurants really stand out?
 
Sube Card makes things very easy.
ATM service charges are still high- many still use casa de cambio.

things are more expensive.

taste varies- but I think Gran Dabang, Proper, the remodeled Los Galgos on Callao, Floreria Atlantico, Chori, La Carniceria, Sunae are all worth a visit.
Lots of new hip places to eat, in every neighborhood. Check out Pick Up the Fork.

There have been a series of fun free outdoor concerts on the plaza behind CC Recoleta, usually with a craft beer truck selling pints, that are fun in the spring.

http://centroculturalrecoleta.org/agenda/radar-musica-811

still plenty of fashion, shoes, and cocktails in Palermo, much better bread most everywhere, good burgers in a lot of places- I go for Tierra De Nadie and Dellapiane, myself.
 
Black market is here forever.

But not nearly as far from the official rate as 5 years ago, which is what the OP was asking.
You can withdraw money from ATM's and lose as much (or a bit more) between the exchange rate and the fees, as in any foreign country.
 
I thought I still had my Sube card but alas I guess I will be getting a new one.

Thanks for the restaurant recs, Veteran. And good burgers.... that one surprised me. I remember going to the Office for burgers, I think? But then that closed.
 
this-
http://www.burger-life.com/2015/08/01/dellepiane-bar-san-nicolas-buenos-aires/

good burgers , great fries , microbrews on tap and, often a happening dj.
 
I noticed that the end of the Open Polo Championship will be happening while we're there (we arrive Nov. 22), and I've never been. I looked at ticketek for tickets, but it seems like the semifinal and final tickets are bundled together and a bit expensive (US$50+). Am I reading that wrong? Is there another option for a single-game ticket? I don't care at all which game to attend.
 
I think you can get tickets the day of and there are different prices depending on the seats. We went twice last year, 1st time exciting, 2nd a big yawn and left very early.
Nancy
 
I'm cutting and pasting and slightly editing a post of mine from Trip Advisor:

I believe Macri is working to make Argentina a better place for those who reside there. The jury is out on his effectiveness. However, the cost of "tripping" in Bs As is definitely more expensive than it has been since I first started coming here in 1975.
Owing to high import duties, clothes and electro-domesticos have always been equal to or more expensive in Bs As than in the US. However, historically, the things tourists spend money on e.g., taxis, restaurants, and lodging (except luxury hotels), have usually been comparatively inexpensive. That is no longer true.

In Bs As I live across the street from La Exposicion bakery in the Recoleta. It used to be a bargain to buy media lunas, sandwiches, pastries, etc there. Now these items sell for about the same or just a bit less than I would expect to pay in a decent bakery in NYC (where I recently also resided). Last night I went to La Biela, an upscale bar/café adjacent to Plaza Francia in the Recoleta. A common cocktail (Margarita, Bloody Mary, etc ) costs 260 pesos. At current rates of exchange, that equals about $15 - without tip. That is typical of pricing at upscale Bs As spots and pretty close to NYC rates.
My downstairs kiosk charges 65 pesos ($3.50+) for a 1 liter bottle of Coca Cola light. My cablevision (TV/local phone/internet) bill is over 1400 pesos/mo. My light and gas bill remains compatively low, but that reflects minimum usage owing to little time spent in my apt. Even my favorite neighborhood restaurant (Bar Norte) has lost its bargain status - a main dish that used to cost $8 up until 3 years ago now cost $20+. It's not that this pricing is "expensive' in relation to NYC, however it is no longer inexpensive.

I would estimate that cops, firemen, teachers, restaurant workers, etc in Bs As earn salaries on the order of 1/4 or less than their counterparts in NYC. What I find curious is that, despite this huge discrepancy in the salary structure between Bs and NYC, the upscale restaurants that I have the good fortune to afford are filled with Portenos late into almost every night. Go figure.

That Bs As has lost some of its charm and tourist attractiveness because it is no longer a bargain destination is, I think, reflected in the decrease in activity in this forum (TA). The nature and number of posts reflects, in my opinion, the downturn in Bs As tourism. Moreover, it also portends a decrease in the number of expats drawn to Bs As to establish an alternative life style. I'm sorry to see this trend, not only as it personally affects my purse, but because tourism has heretofore been a major industry benefitting a large part of the local population. Mr Macri has serious challenges ahead of him.
 
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