The story of the Expat who died at the summit of Aconcagua

[sesamosinsal]

well perhaps he lacked preparation as he has been training in Mendoza for 4 months, he even climbed Tolosa there previously. Tolosa is 1640 feet while Aconcagua is 1900 and something else feet. Why did not he die in Tolosa?
He was perfectly acclimatized and got to the summit, that has nothing to do with preparation in my opinion. The point here is another different one. Those climbers who saw his body, they confirm he was waiting ...
There were many lies Mendoza local press published.

The summit is nearly 23,000 feet. That's high.

Preparation sometimes isn't good enough. Pilots, marathon runners, and race car drivers all train extensively. But every now and then, a plane crashes, a runner has a heart attack, and a professional race car driver crashes. It's life.

I'm sorry for your loss. Whatever you're looking for, I hope you find it.

 

[jez]

Marie, I'm sorry for your loss.

I read the article:
http://alpinismonline.com.ar/alp-not...=10219&lang=EN and with a fresh perspective I find it odd that people were coming to rescue him, it stated that they were looking for someone in red. It stated that when Tarmo saw him at "December 5th at 4.05 pm at a few meters of the summit" he felt exhausted but wanted to continue on, so there must have been someone else who spoke to him before and decided he needed help, but they would have had to have radioed the park rangers for help, but then I find it odd that they would leave him there and continue down himself, could there be a possibility that they were looking for someone else?

If they were looking for him and they themselves reached the summit and did not find him (as he was sheltering from the wind - away from the canaleta route), they would have made a quick retreat (as the summit is no place to hang around) and maybe assumed he had made his own way down and that the message of someone in red was 'in difficulty' was some incorrect information.

This is my impression of a possible turn of events.

I myself have summited Aconcagua, back in 2005, on my third attempt (1999 & 2001) I know how strong the pull is to get to the summit. I do however believe that Mike did sufficient acclimatisation before the summit attempt. The normal route has the tag of a 'big walk' rather than a climb, it is not technical, but there are other factors that make it so dangerous (cold, altitude, winds etc.).

As for the incorrect press, even a few months after the tragic even all the facts are still not known, so it could be that the reporters made a story from the limited facts that had.

Jez

 

[marie]

Marie, I'm sorry for your loss.

I read the article:
http://alpinismonline.com.ar/alp-not...=10219&lang=EN and with a fresh perspective I find it odd that people were coming to rescue him, it stated that they were looking for someone in red. It stated that when Tarmo saw him at "December 5th at 4.05 pm at a few meters of the summit" he felt exhausted but wanted to continue on, so there must have been someone else who spoke to him before and decided he needed help, but they would have had to have radioed the park rangers for help, but then I find it odd that they would leave him there and continue down himself, could there be a possibility that they were looking for someone else?

If they were looking for him and they themselves reached the summit and did not find him (as he was sheltering from the wind - away from the canaleta route), they would have made a quick retreat (as the summit is no place to hang around) and maybe assumed he had made his own way down and that the message of someone in red was 'in difficulty' was some incorrect information.

This is my impression of a possible turn of events.

I myself have summited Aconcagua, back in 2005, on my third attempt (1999 & 2001) I know how strong the pull is to get to the summit. I do however believe that Mike did sufficient acclimatisation before the summit attempt. The normal route has the tag of a 'big walk' rather than a climb, it is not technical, but there are other factors that make it so dangerous (cold, altitude, winds etc.).

As for the incorrect press, even a few months after the tragic even all the facts are still not known, so it could be that the reporters made a story from the limited facts that had.

Jez

Hi Jez
I like your explanation. Well the one who they were looking for was Mike. I knew it because I spoke with my friend who has recently arrived from Aconcagua. I also contacted Tarmo. He and Mike were the first ones to summit. The point here is that when the editor of the magazine who has been in contact with me from the beginning wrote a conventional letter to Aconcagua authorities, sent an e mail to the chied of the police patrol and other people from Mendoza they never answered. The U.S Embassy has also been in contact with me since I was the one who gave them the news about michael´s decease. They immediately sent a consul to investigate how the park worked with foreigners as they had never been notified by the park about the decease. I also knew (because I contacted them in person ) from people who were there many things. They were looking for Michael because his permit was about to expire according to what a climber told me. I have also been contacting people who work as volunteer at the park , I did not want to mention it to the editor but my friend and work mate (She met Mike in person in Buenos Aires) who has just arrived from there told me most of Michael´s equipment is being sold at Aconcagua.
May be when you went up there in 2005 , regulations at the park were better. I am just talking like a person being born in this country and who has visited other provincial parks , not a summit but all the same, mountain parks and they are not very strick with regulations the same as in Aconcagua. I think we have to finish with it so that there won´t be any more mikes or Federicos. All that is in the magazine is an investigation done by reporting people who were there, who usually work there and people who has been next to Mike even sleeping next to Mike. It is not an acussation , it only claims for an explanation. NO information has been given , not a single detail. But yes, the person they were looking for was Michael (that I know it from good source)

 

[marie]

The summit is nearly 23,000 feet. That's high.

Preparation sometimes isn't good enough. Pilots, marathon runners, and race car drivers all train extensively. But every now and then, a plane crashes, a runner has a heart attack, and a professional race car driver crashes. It's life.

I'm sorry for your loss. Whatever you're looking for, I hope you find it.

I agree with you. We have even seen at the Dakkar that many sportman died. I know that climbing a mountain , a summit let´s say is dangerous. but it is even more dangerous when you notice that to a certain altitude there is nobody to ask for help. But I do agree with you completely, sometimes may be fate, sometimes incompetence or whatever but information is always needed and should be given.

 

[lwfh]

Marie, I am so sorry to hear of your loss. My thoughts and prayers are with you.

 

[soulskier]

Marie, I too am sorry for your loss. I spoke to Mike before he decided to head to Mendoza.