Climbing Aconcuagua

[Mike1]

I think I must be reading this wrong, you think you can climb Aconcagua via the normal route out of season in 3 days??? YOU ARE GOING TO DIE !!!! please let me know if I am reading it wrong, but I would appear you have no idea about the effects of altitude and the need to acclimatise....

I've summited solo via the normal route in 10 days with the use of mules to get equipment to Plaza de mulas. And there was good conditions and no fresh snow.

I've had no problems with acclimatization so far, up to 14,500 ft. and with a 6137 ft. gain in 1 day from Whitney Portal to the summit. Mt. Whitney is the highest elevation in the continental United States. Some people would need time to acclimatize but so far, at this height, I feel the same as I did when I'm at sea level. I guess I'm blessed with this ability and endurance. As far as the cold, I've been to Denali National Park, AK where temperatures can drop as low as -45 or even lower at times. Had to abort McKinley at 17,000 ft. due to a 100+ Mph winds during a storm and it was way too cold & way too dangerous to move further. I'm one of those people that run through the trails with a 50-60 pound packs wearing a fleece sweater or a just a t-shirt @ 20 F degrees. I sweat a lot at this temperature, so I usually keep myself hydrated with water or melt snow if I have to. I usually complete a 6 hour trail in 4-4.5 hours (faster on the descent). This is a push to see how far I could go before I need to acclimatize. If I pass this test, I will be looking for sponsors to attempt an oxygenless ascent of Everest. I don't like to use porters, mules, or any kinda assistance to carry my stuff and slow me down. At worst, I'll put my things on a sled and pull them (least likely, too slow for me). Just what I can carry on my back , including food, tent, bivy sacks, sleeping bags, technical climbing gear, etc. and go. That is the alpinist and the purest method of mountaineering. Travel light with speed and pray for favorable weather is the key.

 

[Mike1]

I shouldn't worry, Jez. I'm sure Mike is just having a laugh. If he were posting on a climbing forum everybody would know that he's just taking the piss.

However, since this forum attracts a wide range of people and since there might be gap-year travellers and trustafarians looking in and thinking k3wl! I can learn tango and climb Aconcagua and do both in just two weeks may I just add to what Jez just said and repeat - don't do it!

Check out Jim Ryan's excellent book (hasn't this been mentioned before?). P21 will give you average timings in high season when the weather stands some chance of being moderate for a few days: P43 will tell you all about the rescue, support and other services available out of season - i.e. nothing, nix nada.

And for some light relief you must read 'Last Breath' by Peter Stark which is an entertaining romp through the miriad ways of killing yourself through making bad judgements in extreme sports.

FYI It's also posted on a climbing forum as well. There are a few people out there that are like me, who are not affected by high altitude and the need to acclimatize is minimal. I've had a team member who can't even walk in a straight line after 12,000 feet. He has to be left behind and had turn back with another person to acclimatize & catch up with the rest of us at the next base camp.

 

[marie]

LMAO and you can rest at the foreigners' cementary at the bottom of Aconcagua too! I haven't climbed Aconcagua but I saw the tombs of the foreigners. Thousands die every year. Stop reading stories, talk to real people who went there.

 

[HDM]

I don't think this kind of hyperbole helps make your point. I suppose I could look it up to be specific, but that would not be time well used, I think. Regardless, I would doubt that "thousands die" annually climbing all the world's mountains together, and certainly not Aconcagua, which, as I recall, averages a few deaths a year, easily less than ten.

I have also been to the cemetery up there, and it is a beautiful setting, worth the trip -- alive, of course.

I'm trying to understand why you made a comment like this, Marie, and in this tone?

 

[elhombresinnombre]

I don't think this kind of hyperbole helps make your point. I suppose I could look it up to be specific, but that would not be time well used, I think. Regardless, I would doubt that "thousands die" annually climbing all the world's mountains together, and certainly not Aconcagua, which, as I recall, averages a few deaths a year, easily less than ten.

IIRC Jim Ryan's book suggested that fatalities were down to less than 8-10 each year but ICBA to look it up again. On the other hand, who knows how many climbers try in the middle of winter, never to be seen again? Like the Lancaster in the Tupangato glacier (google STENDEC if you like a mystery story) the mountain might only spit them out scores of years later.

Incidentally, Mike has indeed posted on at least one climbing forum (google some of the text from his original post to find) and received polite, 'don't do it' responses from his peers. I notice that he's modified his proposals considerably and I'd suggest, Mike, if you are still hoping to pick up team members from this forum, you post the modified plans here.

 

[HDM]

BBC World this morning did a short bit (a couple of minutes) on the mountain rescue service's financial problems on Aconcagua. They are proposing climbers take out rescue insurance. Seems like a fair idea to me.

 

[Mike1]

Rescues at Mt. Aconcagua is poor at best. I was pretty sickened of the video of the rescuers on Aconcagua last summer. The victim could have easily been saved if they have the right equipments instead of getting 15 new snowmobiles. Medical supplies and a rescue sled does not cost that much, compared to a brand new snowmobile. If people there actually take more precautions and have the proper rescue equipments, they can perform their own rescues. I have my own rescue equipments, but if I needed to be rescued, I would expect the same from the other parties. Forget about bringing an avalanche beacon, this isn't the US or Europe, so it won't work as well here. There isn't even a weather advisory on the hand held radios, so it is mostly experience & judgment to avoid accidents and be able to improvise a shelter, like a snow cave or an igloo in case of emergencies. This is a category 3 mountaineer's climb from the Polish trail so it is not too difficult or too technical. The most difficult thing is the acclimating to the higher altitude and endurance in the cold. It is colder than Everest at this time of the year (-63 F with wind), but not as cold as Mt. McKinley or Mt. Vinson. I'm currently monitoring the weather weekly to see how things are at Aconcagua at the moment. It looks like October/November might be more practical than the winter. I'll probably even take another trip back home to bring more stuff "just in case," for things like rock climbing anchors, skis, a full down suit, and the rest of my ropes. Stay tuned for an updated Itinerary.

 

[Mike1]

Whoa talk anouit cold.... http://www.snow-forecast.com/resorts/Aconcagua/6day/top ONLY -110F/-79C this Sunday, that's all...

 

[Mike1]

It's snowing in Aconcagua, any high altitude skiers out there???

 

[RichG]

Mike

Are you out there now? Are you still planning a summit attempt? If so let us know what you are up to and when you are planning to climb I'd be interested to know how it goes.

Suerte
Rich