Climbing Aconcuagua

[Mike1]

Will be leaving in a few days, starting from Ushuaia, and work my way upwards towards Mendoza & the ceiling of America. Just brought back my full down suit (will be sweating @ -50F with just t-shirt & shorts underneath, with a good laying system, -100F is a joke), and randonee skiing equipment to ski off from the summit, and to do outback skiing wherever I go in the south (can't stand the crowded ski resorts), but there is no way I will be doing this thing alone, since I will be needing somebody to dig me out in the case of an avalanche. Sure, I also have an avalung, but what good is that when there's nobody to dig you out? If I do it alone, I will be doing the normal route and probably do 2-3 summits on this trip to see which is the best way to ski down. If I happen to catch other ski mountaineers, or other mountaineers on their way up, I'll just tag along & have them spot me from different checkpoints. The false Polish traverse looks really good as a skiing route, then again who knows... I just want to avoid the crowd between Dec. and Feb., not to mention the $400 park entrance fee, unpredictable weather, and more probabilities for accidents in the summer.

Patagonia looks like a really good training ground for the rest of the 7 summits. Hopefully, Vinson (Antarctica) & Everest (Nepal) will be my next stop once I pick up more sponsors...

 

[RichG]

Sounds great and good luck.

Have you seen John Biggars site or book, it is an great resource for climbing and ski mountaineering in the Andes.

I'm heading over to the Andes too but don't think I will get any major summits in until late Spring. I'm hoping to cross at least some of the southern icecap depending on weather of course.

Anyway all the best for the summit attempt.

Rich
Out of interest how ar eyou getting about and into the mountains

 

[jessedurr]

HHAHAHAHAHA

please tell me you are kidding- or you know something that the rest of the climbing community worldwide doesn't.

By the way, there is a REALLY BIG DIFFERENCE in how you feel at 17k feet and at almost 23K feet. Or have you been living above 6000 m for the last month? Oh, and about AMS, don't worry, it won't show up when you go to the doctor's office for your physical, especially if you do it here in buenos aires- right next to the ocean.

I really hope this is a joke.
Oh, and because it is a national park with things like rules, you should probably be aware that one of the rules requires you to have a guide to climb during the winter season.

But on a more serious note- i would STRONGLY recommend a warmup peak that is a little easier and lower in the area before heading to Aconcagua- at least it will give you some perspective on what you are planning to do. Maybe try something like Marmolejo or Cerro Plata. They are both significantly shorter in terms of distance, and given your reported pace, they should be no more than fun little day trips.

I hope you take the sarcasm in the responses as a hint...

 

[Mike1]

It's called being aware and prepared for it... and carrying...

Aspirin

Acetazolamide

Nifedipine

Dexamethasone

Furosemide

Phochlorperazine

and lastly...

Sildenafil (yup, also known as VIAGRA)

And yes, I am going to warm up a bit by doing some ski mountaineering in Patagonia for a while. Come to think of it, I should be a guide... and FYI a couple of Peruvian runners completed Aconcagua in 24 hours...

Thanks for the advice tho, I will put those places in mind... also Pissis in La Rioja.

HHAHAHAHAHA

please tell me you are kidding- or you know something that the rest of the climbing community worldwide doesn't.

By the way, there is a REALLY BIG DIFFERENCE in how you feel at 17k feet and at almost 23K feet. Or have you been living above 6000 m for the last month? Oh, and about AMS, don't worry, it won't show up when you go to the doctor's office for your physical, especially if you do it here in buenos aires- right next to the ocean.

I really hope this is a joke.
Oh, and because it is a national park with things like rules, you should probably be aware that one of the rules requires you to have a guide to climb during the winter season.

But on a more serious note- i would STRONGLY recommend a warmup peak that is a little easier and lower in the area before heading to Aconcagua- at least it will give you some perspective on what you are planning to do. Maybe try something like Marmolejo or Cerro Plata. They are both significantly shorter in terms of distance, and given your reported pace, they should be no more than fun little day trips.

I hope you take the sarcasm in the responses as a hint...

 

[soulskier]

HHAHAHAHAHA

please tell me you are kidding- or you know something that the rest of the climbing community worldwide doesn't.

By the way, there is a REALLY BIG DIFFERENCE in how you feel at 17k feet and at almost 23K feet. Or have you been living above 6000 m for the last month? Oh, and about AMS, don't worry, it won't show up when you go to the doctor's office for your physical, especially if you do it here in buenos aires- right next to the ocean.

I really hope this is a joke.
Oh, and because it is a national park with things like rules, you should probably be aware that one of the rules requires you to have a guide to climb during the winter season.

But on a more serious note- i would STRONGLY recommend a warmup peak that is a little easier and lower in the area before heading to Aconcagua- at least it will give you some perspective on what you are planning to do. Maybe try something like Marmolejo or Cerro Plata. They are both significantly shorter in terms of distance, and given your reported pace, they should be no more than fun little day trips.

I hope you take the sarcasm in the responses as a hint...

Put me down for another that thinks you are pulling our leg

 

[RichG]

Mike

Don't take any notice, people are only jealous.

You seem to have a good selection of drugs at your disposal, I'm sure they will come in handy. Although what are you going to do with the viagra? Are you planning on breaking some other altitude record you haven't yet told us about? jaja, just joking.

Have you checked with a doctor how these pills might react with the ones you are currently taking? You should double check before you take a cocktail high on a remote mountain.

Anyway, with a couple of weeks ski mountaineering in Patagonia and a good supply of drugs almost anything is possible. Personally I'm surprised more people don't want to come along, but that's city folk for you.

Remember to keep is informed of progress.
Suerte.

 

[soulskier]

RichG,

Now that you mention it, I use drugs and have been ski mountaineering in Patagonia the last 3 winters, so I guess that makes me ready for mighty Aconcagua!

 

[rrptownley]

The peruvian runners spent a week acclimatizing above base camp before they started their run, not 3 days. Also that cocktail of drugs will hide your altitude sickness symptoms not surpress them. Have you really attempted anything like this before?

 

[Mike1]

The peruvian runners spent a week acclimatizing above base camp before they started their run, not 3 days. Also that cocktail of drugs will hide your altitude sickness symptoms not surpress them. Have you really attempted anything like this before?

No, never needed them, so far so good... They're there "just in case" or if I need to treat someone with altitude sickness... You'd be surprised at how many people climbed unprepared... I'm one of those climbers that aren't trying to break any records, just getting there while helping others along the way and safely make it to the summit is good enough.

 

[RichG]

Remember the summit is only half way...if you are lucky.