Feeling Nostalgic-Left BA 20 years ago this week!

[shelbytruck]

Hello all,
I just wanted to say hello and write a bit because as mentioned in the title I am looking for some catharsis on this the 20 year anniversary of our departure from BA.

I think the reason it's been on my mind is because we (my wife and I) had two of the best years of our lives living in Palermo. We lived right by the zoo off of Republica Del India and loved (most) every minute of it. I haven't been back in the 20 years so I can only imagine the change that has taken place. If you want a few good laughs read on as I recall some of our favorite things at the time.

We arrived in Jan 2002 - those of you that know the history will recall this was right during a period of turmoil - as I recall multiple presidents in one month and the peso de - pegged from the dollar. This worked in our favor as the peso went from 1 to 1 to 4 to 1 as I recall nearly immediately. We were there for work and got paid primarily in US dollars so they went very far.

We spent a lot of time looking for ATMs that had cash those first few months. Will always cherish walking down Florida and hearing "Cambio cambio - pago mas"!

When we felt homesick our go to restaurant was Kansas - is that still there? As I recall it was out further in the suburbs maybe even past Belgrano? Loved their ribs and papas relleno's and papas fritas and of course they were open at 7pm when we wanted to eat dinner.

Loved walking to the Norte up the street. Given the small fridges it seems like it was a near daily occurrence. Always amazed at the bargains they had and how you could get a good Malbec for a few bucks!

As I recall in 2002 there we few if any Starbucks so I became used to Argentinian local cafe con leche from the corner. I'm sure that has changed.

Internet was still relatively new- but as I recall service wasn't too bad. No streaming of course, so we got by what with was on TV or at the movies.

I liked the fact that at least back then, the custom was to have the tv show or movie in English with spanish subtitles so we got to see a lot of first run films in the native English. It was also a good way to continue to learn Spanish as your eye naturally wandered to the subtitles.

We went to the movie theater in Recoletta a lot - near the cemetary. At the time there was a Hooters there as well so it made for a great night out .

Going there we typically drove which leads me to another story I still tell a lot. Using the companies "lawyers"/fixers" we show up at what I guess was the DMV to presumably take a test and get a Argentinian Drivers license. Will never forget--the guy that took us - once we got there all he says to me is " give me 20 bucks". I don't say anything, hand over the cash and all I know is he comes back 10 minutes later with licenses for me and my wife! Didn't fill out a thing.

Speaking of cash-this will make you groan. Given the economic crisis at the time, we could fly round trip to Miami for $299 on selected days - and this was during the American Airlines phase of "more room through coach" Have dinner, cross your legs in comfort , fall asleep and wake up in Miami for less than 300 round trip! I did it often that first year as we had no kids at the time.

Which of course segues me to our greatest memory--our first born was delivered at the Maternidad de Suiza Hospital in April 2003 which as I recall was in Recoleta I think. What a phenomenal experience and I assume they still treat pregnant women like royalty? The birthing suite had a separate living room for me to sleep in, room service for both of us was relatively good, bellman to help us with our luggage valet to park our car--4 night stay in the hospital--I wasn't sure if we were in a hospital or a resort.

So fast forward and he turned 21 a few weeks ago. I believe he is technically still a dual citizen. He gets a lot of joy out of telling his friends he is Argentinian as he is the Waspiest good ole boy American you will find!

Well I guess thats enough -if I can offer one piece of advice it is enjoy every minute of it even when you are down on the situation--I think you too will look back in 20 years and realize how great a place it really is.

Thanks for letting me reminisce and take care!

 

[Lanick]

Those who were here more than 20 years ago has some great memories. What an amazing place it was. Absolutely not any more! People in their 30s and these are the ones who make a place vibing have already left the country. Now they’re mostly in Spain and Italy. Of course in Miami and the UK. The days when you could get a Recoleta 3 br flat in a doorman building for $100 K or in Puerto Madero.

Cafes are still around. So is the Kansas. Hooters not! No tickets for 299!

You should maybe visit one day. Still some great things about this country even though not as much as it used to!

 

[elhombresinnombre]

Great post! Loved it! I first arrived at Easter that year. Plus ça change Plus c'est la meme chose Buenos Aires is so different now but it's still, unmistakably Buenos Aires. Do come back and embrace the changes and the similarities: I think you'll love it here.

 

[perry]

Hello all,
I just wanted to say hello and write a bit because as mentioned in the title I am looking for some catharsis on this the 20 year anniversary of our departure from BA.

I think the reason it's been on my mind is because we (my wife and I) had two of the best years of our lives living in Palermo. We lived right by the zoo off of Republica Del India and loved (most) every minute of it. I haven't been back in the 20 years so I can only imagine the change that has taken place. If you want a few good laughs read on as I recall some of our favorite things at the time.

We arrived in Jan 2002 - those of you that know the history will recall this was right during a period of turmoil - as I recall multiple presidents in one month and the peso de - pegged from the dollar. This worked in our favor as the peso went from 1 to 1 to 4 to 1 as I recall nearly immediately. We were there for work and got paid primarily in US dollars so they went very far.

We spent a lot of time looking for ATMs that had cash those first few months. Will always cherish walking down Florida and hearing "Cambio cambio - pago mas"!

When we felt homesick our go to restaurant was Kansas - is that still there? As I recall it was out further in the suburbs maybe even past Belgrano? Loved their ribs and papas relleno's and papas fritas and of course they were open at 7pm when we wanted to eat dinner.

Loved walking to the Norte up the street. Given the small fridges it seems like it was a near daily occurrence. Always amazed at the bargains they had and how you could get a good Malbec for a few bucks!

As I recall in 2002 there we few if any Starbucks so I became used to Argentinian local cafe con leche from the corner. I'm sure that has changed.

Internet was still relatively new- but as I recall service wasn't too bad. No streaming of course, so we got by what with was on TV or at the movies.

I liked the fact that at least back then, the custom was to have the tv show or movie in English with spanish subtitles so we got to see a lot of first run films in the native English. It was also a good way to continue to learn Spanish as your eye naturally wandered to the subtitles.

We went to the movie theater in Recoletta a lot - near the cemetary. At the time there was a Hooters there as well so it made for a great night out .

Going there we typically drove which leads me to another story I still tell a lot. Using the companies "lawyers"/fixers" we show up at what I guess was the DMV to presumably take a test and get a Argentinian Drivers license. Will never forget--the guy that took us - once we got there all he says to me is " give me 20 bucks". I don't say anything, hand over the cash and all I know is he comes back 10 minutes later with licenses for me and my wife! Didn't fill out a thing.

Speaking of cash-this will make you groan. Given the economic crisis at the time, we could fly round trip to Miami for $299 on selected days - and this was during the American Airlines phase of "more room through coach" Have dinner, cross your legs in comfort , fall asleep and wake up in Miami for less than 300 round trip! I did it often that first year as we had no kids at the time.

Which of course segues me to our greatest memory--our first born was delivered at the Maternidad de Suiza Hospital in April 2003 which as I recall was in Recoleta I think. What a phenomenal experience and I assume they still treat pregnant women like royalty? The birthing suite had a separate living room for me to sleep in, room service for both of us was relatively good, bellman to help us with our luggage valet to park our car--4 night stay in the hospital--I wasn't sure if we were in a hospital or a resort.

So fast forward and he turned 21 a few weeks ago. I believe he is technically still a dual citizen. He gets a lot of joy out of telling his friends he is Argentinian as he is the Waspiest good ole boy American you will find!

Well I guess thats enough -if I can offer one piece of advice it is enjoy every minute of it even when you are down on the situation--I think you too will look back in 20 years and realize how great a place it really is.

Thanks for letting me reminisce and take care!

Thank you for your beautiful post and it made me feel sad as the city feels completely different in 2024 than in that very special time in 2003 .

I came in that year myself to live here and it had all the comforts of Europe for one third of the price . Nowadays the difference is shocking to say the least and that meal in Kansas will be US$ 80 for two minmum and thats without deserts . Hospital care has diminished greatly of late as public hospitals are recieving very little funding and private hospitals are not updating their facilities nor medical equipments . Prices in US dollars for nearly everything are over three times as expensive in us dollars than 2003 . I remember eating out at La Cabrera often for less than US 10 per person at that time . Now it would be minimum US$ 50 per person and only in happy hour . Everything was cheaper then rents were only $ 200 per month in Palermo Soho and clothing of very high quality was very affordable . Travelling from Argentina and within Argentina was a great bargain and service was exemplary on the planes and buses . It was a very different period and the city was romantic and elegant . I remember that the plazas and parks were full of lovers enjoying a beautiful day . The streets were much cleaner then with no garbage bins overflowing with garbage flowing on the sidewalks . Then only at a specific time could gabage be taken out and the trucks would come and collect it on the dot . It was forbidden to leave garbage on the streets for collection outside of these times . Palermo Viejo was a bohemian beautiful neighbourhood with very few tourists and a great vibe . Coffees and 3 medialunas were 1 us dollars served with elegance from a waiter with a bowtie and panache .

For me the city has changed irrevocably from that time and the changes have not been for the better . The biggest lost for me is the elegance of the city has been severely diminished and now with the eye boggling prices we have to pay for the most basic food items and everything else it creates a diminished lifestlyle .

 

[sergio]

Hello all,
I just wanted to say hello and write a bit because as mentioned in the title I am looking for some catharsis on this the 20 year anniversary of our departure from BA.

I think the reason it's been on my mind is because we (my wife and I) had two of the best years of our lives living in Palermo. We lived right by the zoo off of Republica Del India and loved (most) every minute of it. I haven't been back in the 20 years so I can only imagine the change that has taken place. If you want a few good laughs read on as I recall some of our favorite things at the time.

We arrived in Jan 2002 - those of you that know the history will recall this was right during a period of turmoil - as I recall multiple presidents in one month and the peso de - pegged from the dollar. This worked in our favor as the peso went from 1 to 1 to 4 to 1 as I recall nearly immediately. We were there for work and got paid primarily in US dollars so they went very far.

We spent a lot of time looking for ATMs that had cash those first few months. Will always cherish walking down Florida and hearing "Cambio cambio - pago mas"!

When we felt homesick our go to restaurant was Kansas - is that still there? As I recall it was out further in the suburbs maybe even past Belgrano? Loved their ribs and papas relleno's and papas fritas and of course they were open at 7pm when we wanted to eat dinner.

Loved walking to the Norte up the street. Given the small fridges it seems like it was a near daily occurrence. Always amazed at the bargains they had and how you could get a good Malbec for a few bucks!

As I recall in 2002 there we few if any Starbucks so I became used to Argentinian local cafe con leche from the corner. I'm sure that has changed.

Internet was still relatively new- but as I recall service wasn't too bad. No streaming of course, so we got by what with was on TV or at the movies.

I liked the fact that at least back then, the custom was to have the tv show or movie in English with spanish subtitles so we got to see a lot of first run films in the native English. It was also a good way to continue to learn Spanish as your eye naturally wandered to the subtitles.

We went to the movie theater in Recoletta a lot - near the cemetary. At the time there was a Hooters there as well so it made for a great night out .

Going there we typically drove which leads me to another story I still tell a lot. Using the companies "lawyers"/fixers" we show up at what I guess was the DMV to presumably take a test and get a Argentinian Drivers license. Will never forget--the guy that took us - once we got there all he says to me is " give me 20 bucks". I don't say anything, hand over the cash and all I know is he comes back 10 minutes later with licenses for me and my wife! Didn't fill out a thing.

Speaking of cash-this will make you groan. Given the economic crisis at the time, we could fly round trip to Miami for $299 on selected days - and this was during the American Airlines phase of "more room through coach" Have dinner, cross your legs in comfort , fall asleep and wake up in Miami for less than 300 round trip! I did it often that first year as we had no kids at the time.

Which of course segues me to our greatest memory--our first born was delivered at the Maternidad de Suiza Hospital in April 2003 which as I recall was in Recoleta I think. What a phenomenal experience and I assume they still treat pregnant women like royalty? The birthing suite had a separate living room for me to sleep in, room service for both of us was relatively good, bellman to help us with our luggage valet to park our car--4 night stay in the hospital--I wasn't sure if we were in a hospital or a resort.

So fast forward and he turned 21 a few weeks ago. I believe he is technically still a dual citizen. He gets a lot of joy out of telling his friends he is Argentinian as he is the Waspiest good ole boy American you will find!

Well I guess thats enough -if I can offer one piece of advice it is enjoy every minute of it even when you are down on the situation--I think you too will look back in 20 years and realize how great a place it really is.

Thanks for letting me reminisce and take care!

Good times for you but not for all the people who lost their life savings when dollar accounts were converted to devalued pesos and then frozen. Elderly friend came to me crying that his life savings in the Banco Ffances were lost. The courts ruled that the elderly had some rights to reclaim their money. He hired a lawyer and a couple of years later received back a portion, minus the lawyer's fee. People were so desperate that they couldn't afford to buy anything, so trading posts popped up, even in Recoleta. You'd go there, give them some clothes and they;d give you coupons to use to get what you wanted. I remember you couldn't walk down a street in tribunales without having someone hand you a flyer advertising prostitutes. But, yes, if you had dollars life was easy.

 

[sergio]

Thank you for your beautiful post and it made me feel sad as the city feels completely different in 2024 than in that very special time in 2003 .

I came in that year myself to live here and it had all the comforts of Europe for one third of the price . Nowadays the difference is shocking to say the least and that meal in Kansas will be US$ 80 for two minmum and thats without deserts . Hospital care has diminished greatly of late as public hospitals are recieving very little funding and private hospitals are not updating their facilities nor medical equipments . Prices in US dollars for nearly everything are over three times as expensive in us dollars than 2003 . I remember eating out at La Cabrera often for less than US 10 per person at that time . Now it would be minimum US$ 50 per person and only in happy hour . Everything was cheaper then rents were only $ 200 per month in Palermo Soho and clothing of very high quality was very affordable . Travelling from Argentina and within Argentina was a great bargain and service was exemplary on the planes and buses . It was a very different period and the city was romantic and elegant . I remember that the plazas and parks were full of lovers enjoying a beautiful day . The streets were much cleaner then with no garbage bins overflowing with garbage flowing on the sidewalks . Then only at a specific time could gabage be taken out and the trucks would come and collect it on the dot . It was forbidden to leave garbage on the streets for collection outside of these times . Palermo Viejo was a bohemian beautiful neighbourhood with very few tourists and a great vibe . Coffees and 3 medialunas were 1 us dollars served with elegance from a waiter with a bowtie and panache .

For me the city has changed irrevocably from that time and the changes have not been for the better . The biggest lost for me is the elegance of the city has been severely diminished and now with the eye boggling prices we have to pay for the most basic food items and everything else it creates a diminished lifestlyle .

I don't remember the price of a cup of coffee in 2003 but I do recall that during the Menem years a cafecito was $2,50 pesos or the same in USD at Patio Bullrich which people thought very expensive. Everywhere else it was $1,50 -- in some remote areas you might find it for $1. I still remember that a chicken breast in a restaurant cost $5,00 pesos or the same in USD. I remember going to one of the better restaurants at the time. The bill astonished me - it would have been about the same in NYC. Of course people were earning much more. Five hundred pesos or the same in USD was a common salary for non-professionals then and housing was a lot cheaper.

 

[perry]

I don't remember the price of a cup of coffee in 2003 but I do recall that during the Menem years a cafecito was $2,50 pesos or the same in USD at Patio Bullrich which people thought very expensive. Everywhere else it was $1,50 -- in some remote areas you might find it for $1. I still remember that a chicken breast in a restaurant cost $5,00 pesos or the same in USD. I remember going to one of the better restaurants at the time. The bill astonished me - it would have been about the same in NYC. Of course people were earning much more. Five hundred pesos or the same in USD was a common salary for non-professionals then and housing was a lot cheaper.

In 2003 for those who worked life was good and very cheap . One coffee and three medialunas was 2.80 pesos or one dollar . A steak meal could be had for US$ 5 in many restaurants . Everything was three times cheaper in dollars than today . Minimum wages were also twice as high than now but with prices being three times cheaper there was not this poverty that you see today .

The economic crash in 2001 had passed for most people and from 2003 to 2009 the argentinian economy had solid economic growth under Nestor Kirchner . Shops were opening everywhere and tourism picked up enormously from 2003 onwards . There was a optimism in the air and this was most apparent in the new neighbourhoods of Palermo Soho and the sparkling new Puerto Madero which grew from the costanera sur like a phoenix to become the most expensive neighbourhood of latin america . This happened under Nestor Kirchner . It was a era of relative low inflation of around 20 percent annually and a dollar that accompanied the inflation . You could live on US$ 700 a month easily and very well back then as rents and food were cheap especially meat milk and bread .

 

[sergio]

In 2003 for those who worked life was good and very cheap . One coffee and three medialunas was 2.80 pesos or one dollar . A steak meal could be had for US$ 5 in many restaurants . Everything was three times cheaper in dollars than today . Minimum wages were also twice as high than now but with prices being three times cheaper there was not this poverty that you see today .

The economic crash in 2001 had passed for most people and from 2003 to 2009 the argentinian economy had solid economic growth under Nestor Kirchner . Shops were opening everywhere and tourism picked up enormously from 2003 onwards . There was a optimism in the air and this was most apparent in the new neighbourhoods of Palermo Soho and the sparkling new Puerto Madero which grew from the costanera sur like a phoenix to become the most expensive neighbourhood of latin america . This happened under Nestor Kirchner . It was a era of relative low inflation of around 20 percent annually and a dollar that accompanied the inflation . You could live on US$ 700 a month easily and very well back then as rents and food were cheap especially meat milk and bread .

Please read the initial post. The writer arrived during the devaluation crisis. My comments above refer to the Menem years. The default crisis was an appalling experience. People were desperate. Do not minimize the anguish of losing your life savings. It happened to many. Yes, the economy picked up in 2003 and the prices in dollar terms were low which attracted lots of tourists and permatourists (the people who made visa runs to Uruguay) who were in Argentina largely because it was cheap and fun. When the going got tough many left which is why this site sees so much less traffic than it used to. Now the situation is once again bleak for most people. My impression is that the affluent and the middle class are still willing to wait and see if the austerity plan is going to work. Just how long they're willing to wait remains to be seen. As for the marvellous quality of life you speak of, I disagree. Yes, it was better in 2003 but there was still widespread poverty and many who did not fall into the official designation of poverty lived marginal lives. And let's not forget that the Indec statistics agency was manipulated and reported false numbers. The reality was worse than admitted. Let's be realistic about life for the majority in Argentina. It was not all steak dinners in Puerto Madero (which incidentally was redeveloped in the 1990s). Most people lived and live a completely different reality.

 

[jbeas176]

shelbytruck. i am finally going back on wednesday next week. remember ajo. this site in my opinion is returning to those times with very opinionated and people with diverse views. i still live in that neighborhood. i promise to post my observations. its a great vecino. when i arrived in 2003 i thought it was great. i lived like a king for 2000.00 a month including rent which i dont pay now. one of my first impressions was going to a restaurant with 6 people. the bill was 60.00. the owner came over and gave us 2 bottles of champagne. i will never give my place up. i love the neighborhood, the people, and the restaurants. thanks for the memories

 

[shelbytruck]

Please read the initial post. The writer arrived during the devaluation crisis. My comments above refer to the Menem years. The default crisis was an appalling experience. People were desperate. Do not minimize the anguish of losing your life savings. It happened to many. Yes, the economy picked up in 2003 and the prices in dollar terms were low which attracted lots of tourists and permatourists (the people who made visa runs to Uruguay) who were in Argentina largely because it was cheap and fun. When the going got tough many left which is why this site sees so much less traffic than it used to. Now the situation is once again bleak for most people. My impression is that the affluent and the middle class are still willing to wait and see if the austerity plan is going to work. Just how long they're willing to wait remains to be seen. As for the marvellous quality of life you speak of, I disagree. Yes, it was better in 2003 but there was still widespread poverty and many who did not fall into the official designation of poverty lived marginal lives. And let's not forget that the Indec statistics agency was manipulated and reported false numbers. The reality was worse than admitted. Let's be realistic about life for the majority in Argentina. It was not all steak dinners in Puerto Madero (which incidentally was redeveloped in the 1990s). Most people lived and live a completely different reality.

With all due respect, my initial post was not about people losing their life savings but rather was intended to be (and quite frankly I thought I had conveyed) my reminiscing of what a wonderful time we had. While I of course feel sorry for those less fortunate who saw their life savings vanish--I find it a little curious to bring that into my post when again mine was simply intended to be a happy memory of a special time for me--hence I posted it. Thanks for bringing me back down - truly will never understand some people's perspective and the need to interject a tangential topic at best.