Landed in BA 3 days ago. I'm lost

[Mary_T]

Hi guys. I remember I was asking for the immigration advice in the forum in July. And few months later - here I am. And I must admit, I'm lost. I was shocked how huge and chaotic BA is. But I've never really lived in big cities before, so my reaction is totally expected.
Yesterday I went for a run on the streets (as disgusting as it is after years of running in the nature), but I'm missing running. I went without my phone because everybody says that it's not safe to have your phone on display (=on hand), and I got lost. Of course, nobody speaks English, but I managed to ask a police officer to show me Google maps.
I feel really overwhelmed. And I don't think I'd ever want to live here. I'm looking forward to seeing my lawyer and hoping he tells me that I can go live anywhere in Argentina. He wants to apply for a temporary residence on humanitarian grounds.
Anyway, I have my Airbnb booked in BA until the end of this month. Can anyone please give some advice where to meet English - speakers just to hang out, going for a walk, etc? Maybe if someone is bored and has nothing better to do, I'm totally open to meet up.
Also, what do you think about best places to live in Argentina? Please don't say BA (since you live here, it's pretty clear that it's the best for you. So, name the 2nd best then). And, yes, I know - there're tons of articles in the internet about it. Also, you may think "well, it depends on what you're looking for". True. I love nature and hiking /climbing instead of big city vibes and partying all night. I'll learn Spanish for sure but I'd love to have international community. Plus, prices in BA seem to be crazy, so I'm definitely looking for something more affordable.
I'm thinking of Mendoza. I absolutely love Patagonia and its nature but it's freaking cold. I've lived in African countries a lot, and then in the south of Germany. And as much as I loved mountains, I hated cold weather.
Thank you guys for all your replies! And feel free to ask anything. I'd appreciate interaction with people. I really feel super lonely here.

 

[Yuyo]

I feel ya on the nature to city shock. Coming from the Adirondack Mountain region of NY, part of me always misses the dead silence you can't find CABA.

Now, just as my opinion, it's definitely important to be careful with phones and valuables; but I've been in city for around three years and still haven't been robbed or anything. I think of it as, it's not about leaving everything at home, rather it's about being hyper aware. Like, if you need to send a text or check the maps, back up against a corner-spot on the sidewalk and hold with two hands. Disclaimer, I'm a stick in the mud 9-5'er, so maybe I just don't offer enough opportunities to get robbed (and my misses bo-guards me like a linebacker whenever we need to check the map). Either-how, it'll become hard to get lost after studying the map and learning general layout/street names, takes time.

No tips to locations. I know some of the other members on the forum are scattered around the provinces that might be able to help. But as far as the Buenos Aires "Province" goes (mind it's huge and not just the city), I think there's reasoning why everyone flocks towards the city center. Infrastructure can drop off fast. My in-laws are in a nice suburb just an hour out of the city, and they loose power constantly in the summer. No idea on the other provinces though.

Feel free to ping with any general city concerns though, I remember how freaked out I was when I got here.

 

[LuckyLuke]

Howdy Mary,

So sorry to hear about your troubles. First, it's not unusual to go through your first year in a bit of culture shock. There's a lot to absorb, not only the differences of language, food, schedules and people, but the general look/feel of places too. Be patient with yourself and, as you are doing now, establish some social networks to help ground you during the transition.

Personally, I don't really care for Buenos Aires. I got my dose of "big city" living in Los Angeles most of my life. There are many many calm, beautiful, affordable places in Argentina. There are not many with a strong expat community. You will have to consider that carefully. Regardless, there are a surprising amount of Argentines that speak some level of conversational english and would be happy to converse with you.

Once you feel a little more self sufficient, you can start traveling the country in search of a more desirable location. If you ever get the chance, I would be happy to show you Neuquen. It's got a lot of nature to offer, but the climate is more arid, windy and colder.

Regarding your phone, I would never dare wander around without mine. I get lost very easily and landmarks take a while to notice. You can always have a cheap phone with a local chip for jogging and leave your nice phone at home if you wish.

 

[mrfriendly]

Depending where you are living, there are some good running in parks near the US Embassy. Try Parque El Rosedal and more parks that are right there. Also lots of runners on Av del Libertador. I found when I visit that running the streets or sidewalks are tough in BA. Sidewalks are in bad shape because of the t shade trees and s many streets are cobblestone.

 

[carride]

I'm thinking of Mendoza.

Mendoza city is quieter and pleasant climate all year round. Still it is a city that requires a car to get to the outside the limits to reach more recreation spots. A very easy urban environment. Even better (if want less urban) and not too far south is San Rafael in Mendoza province. A much smaller city that has some rural feel even in the city limits. Lots of Outdoor opportunities for running, hiking, biking, rafting and then real winter sports a bit further south and west into the mountains. Vineyards and associated tourism without being overwhelmed.

 

[RichardAlem]

Hi guys. I remember I was asking for the immigration advice in the forum in July. And few months later - here I am. And I must admit, I'm lost. I was shocked how huge and chaotic BA is. But I've never really lived in big cities before, so my reaction is totally expected.
Yesterday I went for a run on the streets (as disgusting as it is after years of running in the nature), but I'm missing running. I went without my phone because everybody says that it's not safe to have your phone on display (=on hand), and I got lost. Of course, nobody speaks English, but I managed to ask a police officer to show me Google maps.
I feel really overwhelmed. And I don't think I'd ever want to live here. I'm looking forward to seeing my lawyer and hoping he tells me that I can go live anywhere in Argentina. He wants to apply for a temporary residence on humanitarian grounds.
Anyway, I have my Airbnb booked in BA until the end of this month. Can anyone please give some advice where to meet English - speakers just to hang out, going for a walk, etc? Maybe if someone is bored and has nothing better to do, I'm totally open to meet up.
Also, what do you think about best places to live in Argentina? Please don't say BA (since you live here, it's pretty clear that it's the best for you. So, name the 2nd best then). And, yes, I know - there're tons of articles in the internet about it. Also, you may think "well, it depends on what you're looking for". True. I love nature and hiking /climbing instead of big city vibes and partying all night. I'll learn Spanish for sure but I'd love to have international community. Plus, prices in BA seem to be crazy, so I'm definitely looking for something more affordable.
I'm thinking of Mendoza. I absolutely love Patagonia and its nature but it's freaking cold. I've lived in African countries a lot, and then in the south of Germany. And as much as I loved mountains, I hated cold weather.
Thank you guys for all your replies! And feel free to ask anything. I'd appreciate interaction with people. I really feel super lonely here.

You are correct Mary. Buenos Aires is awful in many ways with a large percentage of porteños of all socio-economic strata being, um, ethically challenged. However, Buenos Aires is a convenient location while waiting for citizenship and while dealing with the interminable mindlessness of Migraciones. Choose a few good folks as your friends, ignore the rest.

I'm with you 100% regarding being around nature. My last home in the USA was the width of a dirt road from a natural forest which transitioned into an enormous national wilderness with incredible wildlife. Solitude begets thoughtfulness. In Buenos Aires the only birds are city pigeons, the only animals are genetically modified designer dogs and the only symphony is car horns/barking dogs/motorcycles/sirens.

mrfriendly is right, there is a nice 1,500m loop in Bosque de Palermo that circumscribes Parque Rosedal and also a body of water that is pleasant. It is filled with individual runners and group runners after working hours. You could join one of the running or exercise groups. On the weekends though, the park becomes a zoo. I am a three minute walk from there. You can take the green color designated Subway (Subte) D Line to Palermo and walk along Bullrich (keep the train tracks to your right) towards Av. Libertador, cross Libertador and the edge of the park is 100m to the right. Also, heading further towards Belgrano, there are other large open, grassy areas where you can run and find a scintilla of peace.

To obtain what you seek, you can't be here. If you can process your paperwork from afar yes, Mendoza is fine as is San Luis. Good luck.

 

[FrankPintor]

@Mary_T , your tolerance for big cities must be very low. BA isn't very chaotic, certainly not by Latin American standards, it has traffic lights and road markings, very good public transport, by bus or rail, 24 hour kiosks on every corner, all the services you could need in a radius of 3 blocks, maybe. You just haven't cracked the code, yet. Mrs. Pintor, when she arrived, made a point of getting out and walking 1-2 hours every day, just to get to know the neighbourhood and explore. She got lost too, though she did take her mobile phone. Basically, if you don't wave it around (have you heard the Colombian expression, "no des papaya"?) Don't panic, someone will speak some English, and getting a policeman off his Whatsapp was a big win.

But where are you? Places like Villa Urquiza, Villa Devoto (apparently one of the best places to live, anywhere), can't be compared with the Microcentro. You have lots of options. No way you're going to see them all in a month.

There isn't much hiking and climbing around BA, but there are cycling clubs, and so many parks for jogging (Las Heras, or along Av. Libertador anywhere north of Av. Pueyrredon). Lots more in the suburbs, following the river north. Or the Ecological Reserve, closer to the centre. Too many options, really. And all of those places will be full of groups exercising, jogging, or whatever, in the evenings. Talk to the group trainer, join in, pay a small amount of money for the class, and that's it.

And, if you still can't stand BA, there are, again, too many options. towns like Escobar (flower festival on now) and Campana north of BA (though fewer expats). Or don't go so far, from Olivos to San Fernando is very nice (and lots of places to jog). And, just a random data point, we stopped over in Corrientes a few days ago, the costanera is really, really nice, beaches, cycling, skating and jogging paths, the longest summer in Argentina, I will be looking into staying longer there).

 

[ShoeMakerLevy9]

Native Spanish speaker here. Feel free to DM me if you'd like to meet up and have a conversation with a local. I don't know what your background is but my interests are: Science, Philosophy (the real one, no Foucault or Heidegger shenanigans) soccer and languages. Cheers and hope you feel more comfortable as days goes by.

Disclaimer: I know little to nothing about Argentina outside Buenos Aires.

 

[gracielle]

....Can anyone please give some advice where to meet English - speakers just to hang out....

Hi Mary,
Your are welcome to join us tomorrow, Tuesday Oct 7, at our weekly Coffee Chat.
We meet at VELVET Café/Resto in Palermo from 4:30pm - 6:30pm.
Jeronimo Salguero 1807, cross street Charcas (facing Plaza Guemes).

Come and join English-speaking expats for lively and informative conversations.
Share your experiences with the group. Meet persons with interests in common.
Find answers to many of your questions from expats from different parts of the world
who reside year round/part time in Buenos Aires. NEWCOMERS are always welcome!

 

[Ceviche]

You might want to consider Jujuy or Salta as great places to live—they’re quite different from Buenos Aires! Alternatively, Mendoza is another option, though it tends to be a bit cooler than BA winters.