san cristobal

I am so glad to read this thread because this is my neighborhood now, and I love it! I have only before read comments like, "Your neighborhood sucks, and is an ugly shit hole." I disagree. I think it has real charm, not beautiful restored building charm, but quaint in that it is barrio where people don't dress up to impress others, their buildings I mean, real Argentine charm a full. The restaurants don't yet have English versions of their menus around here. I am not dilusional that its buildings are the most aesthetically attractive part of town, but you really feel like boy, I've left Kansas when you live here. And you DID leave Kansas, so why not feel that way!? : )

The rents are still cheap and reasonable. The location is EXCELLENT for getting around town. It kind of sucks in terms of green space and parks, that is the only part that has started to wear on me. Most parks around here are small and jam packed with screaming kids but there are plently cafes with sidewalk seating. Bar Cao is super awesome. I also like Carlos Gardel on Entre Rios and Indepedencia. One of the best asados in the city is La Tranquera which is so small its not even in Guia Oleo, at Saenz Pena 1000. The area around Plaza Congreso (technically Balvanera) has local theater and the great Biblioteca Congreso as well as my favorite reading place, Cafe Victoria with a view of the beautiful Congreso building and sometimes a front seat to the latest protest...and the best cheap pizza at Pizza Americana.

I know a gal who lives right near where you said your apartment would be, and she avoids Pavon at night. Garay is also sketch at night. I come home all the time after midnight, 2am 3am, but I stick to the major Avenida and use my street walk, my calle (not THAT street walk) and nothing has ever happened.
 
To echo everyone´s comments, San Cristóbal is an authentic neighborhood with next to no tourists. The other side of San Juan (the Autopista 25 de Mayo side) can be a little pesado during the day and at night as mentioned by another poster.

The classic bodegones on Boedo between Independencia and San Juan are great and Pan y Arte is also worth checking out.

The Centro Cultural de Julian Centeya on San Juan has FREE talleres and often performances (such as a blues night put on by the Escuela de Blues). The classes all around the city begin again in March - check out the government website in February for registration dates. I participated in a singing class at the Centro Cultural de Osvaldo Pugliese in Villa Crespo which was fun.
http://www.buenosaires.gov.ar/areas/cultura/prom_cultural/cculturales/centeya.php?menu_id=9313

Unfortunately a few months ago the Japanese grocery store that Thuy refers to below closed for business. I haven´t been by lately to see what went into that space.

courtney


thuy.ashtango said:
There is also a Japanese grocery store on the main floor so you won't have to trek 1hr Chinatown for your basic Asian ingredients.
Thuy
 
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