To everyone who lives in Palermo...

[SaraSara]

Puerto Madero is barren and sterile - not a neighborhood but a collection of overpriced high rises.

Try San Isidro or Tigre for the feel of small-town life, half an hour by train from Retiro.

 

[Alzinho]

Obviously you havent visited Puerto Madero yet.....

Went and had a wander round there today.

Have to say I agree with SaraSara - it looks a bit like docklands in East London in the early days. First time I've seen lines of BMWs and Mercs parked on the streets here!

 

[Ailujjj]

Palermo is lovely and convenient but certainly pricey. That said, it's not the island of wealth and foreigners that many people think (myself included, a few months ago).

While the boutiques and restaurants primarily cater to tourists and expats earning dollars, there are clearly tons of people who live and work in the area that aren't. There are loads of small fruit & veggie stores, grocery stores, etc that are affordable.

The tree-lined streets are lovely and while safe, maybe not as safe as they may appear. Probably safer than many parts of San Telmo, where I never felt that comfortable anywhere after dark, but not safe either.

My point is simply that while it's in many ways nicer than other areas and I'm glad you've discovered it... it's not any more or less a part of Buenos Aires than other neighbourhoods. It's not some bubble - there's plenty of grit under the surface, and lots to love too. There's this constant battle to deem certain areas or experiences as more or less authentic than others on the board...

 

[Napoleon]

I spent a couple of hours wandering around Scalabrini Ortiz and Santa Fe yesterday - you live in a different world to what I know. A different planet completely! I saw clean, tree-lined streets, fresh fruit and vegetables, a shop selling imported cheeses and even fresh fish - something I haven't seen in 3 years! And a shopping centre that could have been in London or New York! All things that I didn't even know existed here.....and unfortunately stocked with stuff that's all WAY out of my budget.

Al

These things can be found all over town. There are several malls on par with Alto Palermo. There are also more places to buy fresh fruit & vegetables in this city than places you can buy empanadas. (Well, that's not true, but still.) Fish markets are in several places and cheese... well there are a few places, but not many because in general the people here don't like quality. Or can't afford it, so people don't sell it.

Really, there are places in Almagro/Abasto and maybe even Once-ish that are somewhat affordable and that offer the same amenities that you described in Palermo (except for the clean streets, though trees can be found).

San Telmo is a dump.

It's got nice nooks & crannies and not every corner has a mountain of garbage on it at night with people going through it, just biding their time until they find someone to rob, but there are more like that than I care to be around. And it's not even that cheap. That's the crazy thing. Get out of there and let some NY hipster former art student come in and rent your place.

 

[mendozanow]

Alzinho. ...YOU NEED A DRINK BUDDY... let me buy you a drink when I come to BA.

 

[studiodio]

hey! i lived on defensa and mexico for six months in San Telmo, and on weekdays I had a neighborhood of folks that recognized me and helped me with daily living stuff (the weekends were turned over to a flow of portenos and tourists that continued to amaze) then lived in Montserrat on the other side of Nueve del Julio for six months.....both grand barrios to live in if you find your ninch.....i also lived in Palermo for 1 month and decided that i more enjoyed living outside of the bubble where I had to interact in spanish more, found the little cafe where I was recognized and greeted by name, where I could get my umbrella fixed for 3 pesos, no palermo bubble for me....

 

[Alzinho]

These things can be found all over town. There are several malls on par with Alto Palermo. There are also more places to buy fresh fruit & vegetables in this city than places you can buy empanadas.

Not in Sant Telmo/Monserrat they can't!

San Telmo is a dump.

Well it's a bit late to be telling me that now!

Get out of there and let some NY hipster former art student come in and rent your place.

Unfortunately I'm 4 months into a 2 year rental contract....and I'm probably going to have to renew that contract when the 2 years is up! I didn't realize how lucky I'd been in getting a 2 year contract without a garantia - I've found out subsequently that it's virtually impossible. And I've got a really nice and spacious place for $1500/mth. And I mean 'nice' by European standards....and that's pesos, not dollars.

 

[mariposa]

Puerto Madero is disgusting! (in my humble opinion..)