While there's no doubt that things have declined these past months, Buenos Aires and the people here still hold joy, it's cultural.
No government can take it away, no matter how hard they try.
Since living here (about 12 years now) I've seen the political and economic climate ebb and flow. What's never changed? The people I was surrounded by, their spirit and grace. Look at them marching for their rights...they're involved, they care. Given the lackluster choices they have by way of politicians...they do what they think is best, then cross their fingers and get through it.
Everyday...whether I'm walking in San Telmo, Palermo, Belgrano, Almagro, Caballito, Centro, Congreso...I still see the care that's enshrined in the culture. People walking arm in arm (couples, family members, friends)...I still see people stopping, bending down and talking to those living in precarious situations on the street, even though others might walk on by. I see people that have means pitching in to help those who don't...at a higher rate than I've seen anywhere I've lived/traveled.
In the twisted world we live in, Governments can't be trusted to do what's right for those that elect them, but here...I see solidarity.
I plan on staying unless it becomes something I can no longer afford (as I come from thin means, unlike some other expatriates that might be able to afford a bit more time in the economic trenches).
My heart is here, I love it here and even if I have to trade meals out to cook polenta with veg at a friends home...that's something I can muster if it means being surrounded by the people in this city I've come to adore. The value was never in how far my earnings could stretch here compared to my home country...it was about something larger. Something I don't see fading as many others here do.
I see joy, even in the midst of the economic decline and not just in circles that have the money to float them through...even in my circle, around friends with lower incomes. They've been through the wringer, they know how to survive. Infact, I'd rather be here during instability, around people who're familiar with its trappings than in the U.S where any minor inconvenience is increasingly met with violence, gunfire.
I often see on the news that people in the US are getting shot near daily now in 'road rage' incidents and on a recent visit back I saw many adult temper tantrums toward service workers...complete melt downs over things like a coffee shop running out of their housemade flavored syrup...or having to wait five minutes for a fast food order. So...I'll hedge my bets with people here...who can stand in a two hour line like it's baked into their psyche. For the most part...worst you'll get is a feigned sigh and a few choice bits of lunfardo.
Equally, there's still vibrant culture to be had on the cheap. Live music, film, museums, nature preserves, parks and some great cheap meal deals if you don't want to take part in the latest gastronomy trends that cost far more. And, to everyone that mentions the cost of Bimbo bread soaring (near 5000 peso was quoted). I got a freshly baked loaf of 'pan de nuez' for $2500 pesos from an independent panadería and it tastes far better than that processed stuff ever could.
Little by little...Argentina will survive this...least that's what I'm hoping.
Too long, didn't read: The country-even in collapse-has high value...it's held in the care and grace of its citizens and culture. I plan to stay and see it through...to the other side of this administration and beyond. Home is home.
Thank you. I'm even past the infatuation stage and I still can't shake this town. There's a controlled chaos here that's managed to draw me in. Similar to what you describe in your beautiful passage. A curiosity from the populous, hope and grace. I see it every single day, multiple times...and each time I nearly cry. It's that cariño.Wow, the best love letters to this country and this city I have ever read. What you wrote really moved me, as it expresses many things I feel about being here, put in a way I could never attain.
When I first came to Buenos Aires for a week of tourism I immediately understood that this is a special place, with special people, and I hoped to be living there in the future. Luckily my wish came true and despite the instability and harshness this is the place where I want to be.
I close with this phrase I transcribed from the initial sequence of the movie “My Obra Maestra” (My Masterpiece), which also encapsulates what I think of Buenos Aires:
Buenos Aires es la mejor ciudad del mundo. Pero, paradójicamente, también puede ser la peor ciudad del mundo. Y ese contraste es lo que la hace tan seductora. Otra cosa que destaca a esta ciudad: la gente.
Viaje’ por todo el mundo. Conozco muy bien Nueva York, Londres, Tokio. Pero la pretension y la locura de Buenos Aires la hacen absolutamente única.
Alguien dijo que era la capital de un imperio que nunca existió. Tiene algo de la sofisticación de las capitales europeas, pero con la justa y necesaria cuota de decadencia que hace que no tenga esa belleza empalagosa de Paris.
Buenos Aires es caótica, imprevisible, cruel, contradictoria, pero son justamente esos defectos los que hacen que la ciudad respire.
Todo puede pasar en Buenos Aires.
As beautiful as the Jacarandas in full bloom…While there's no doubt that things have declined these past months, Buenos Aires and the people here still hold joy, it's cultural.
No government can take it away, no matter how hard they try.
Since living here (about 12 years now) I've seen the political and economic climate ebb and flow. What's never changed? The people I was surrounded by, their spirit and grace. Look at them marching for their rights...they're involved, they care. Given the lackluster choices they have by way of politicians...they do what they think is best, then cross their fingers and get through it.
Everyday...whether I'm walking in San Telmo, Palermo, Belgrano, Almagro, Caballito, Centro, Congreso...I still see the care that's enshrined in the culture. People walking arm in arm (couples, family members, friends)...I still see people stopping, bending down and talking to those living in precarious situations on the street, even though others might walk on by. I see people that have means pitching in to help those who don't...at a higher rate than I've seen anywhere I've lived/traveled.
In the twisted world we live in, Governments can't be trusted to do what's right for those that elect them, but here...I see solidarity.
I plan on staying unless it becomes something I can no longer afford (as I come from thin means, unlike some other expatriates that might be able to afford a bit more time in the economic trenches).
My heart is here, I love it here and even if I have to trade meals out to cook polenta with veg at a friends home...that's something I can muster if it means being surrounded by the people in this city I've come to adore. The value was never in how far my earnings could stretch here compared to my home country...it was about something larger. Something I don't see fading as many others here do.
I see joy, even in the midst of the economic decline and not just in circles that have the money to float them through...even in my circle, around friends with lower incomes. They've been through the wringer, they know how to survive. Infact, I'd rather be here during instability, around people who're familiar with its trappings than in the U.S where any minor inconvenience is increasingly met with violence, gunfire.
I often see on the news that people in the US are getting shot near daily now in 'road rage' incidents and on a recent visit back I saw many adult temper tantrums toward service workers...complete melt downs over things like a coffee shop running out of their housemade flavored syrup...or having to wait five minutes for a fast food order. So...I'll hedge my bets with people here...who can stand in a two hour line like it's baked into their psyche. For the most part...worst you'll get is a feigned sigh and a few choice bits of lunfardo.
Equally, there's still vibrant culture to be had on the cheap. Live music, film, museums, nature preserves, parks and some great cheap meal deals if you don't want to take part in the latest gastronomy trends that cost far more. And, to everyone that mentions the cost of Bimbo bread soaring (near 5000 peso was quoted). I got a freshly baked loaf of 'pan de nuez' for $2500 pesos from an independent panadería and it tastes far better than that processed stuff ever could.
Little by little...Argentina will survive this...least that's what I'm hoping.
Too long, didn't read: The country-even in collapse-has high value...it's held in the care and grace of its citizens and culture. I plan to stay and see it through...to the other side of this administration and beyond. Home is home.
Will keep you updated!I'd like to know how you get on, I might do something similar eventually. Lecheria is supposed to be very nice, just across the water from Margarita. I've never been there, though. I've heard that property prices are attractive, they certainly are on Margarita, but I suspect the catch is that Margarita could run out of water.
I've come to like Medellin less and less as time goes on, it's not just the sex-tourist gringo vibe, and the associated robberies with burundanga and worse, but since the city is enclosed in a steep valley and air pollution has become worse with rising prosperity.
There are too many worries for me to move to Venezuela at the moment, power and water cuts (or rationing if you prefer), spotty internet connection, and general insecurity. Plus, if as expected, Maduro steals the elections in July, sanctions could be applied again and the country cut off from international flights. You must have stronger nerves than me.
I'm also interested in your project of driving to Venezuela
Mexico is scary. I know most of the tourist areas are safe but wouldn't want to move to a country to live like a tourist. For me, Uruguay is a small Argentina. Asunción is really nice, I love it but for me personally, I want a place within 2 or 3 hours flight to the US as I hate flying (National Geographic, Mayday).I am surprised no one considered Mexico and Uruguay/ Paraguay for moving to, in this thread.
I wasn't born in the US and I have an Arg. Passport. If I keep my mouth closed, they will pbly think I am Venezuelan/Colombian ETC.Pre-Chavez Venezuela was one of my favorite places to vacation. The beaches, food, people and nature were wonderful. I don't know what nationality you are but as an American I'd be concerned about my safety (from criminals and the government), the availability of health care and medicines and infrastructure.
Certainly Mexico. Look at the supermarket video thread.I am surprised no one considered Mexico and Uruguay/ Paraguay for moving to, in this thread.
Not San Miguel d'Allende or Ajijic. San Miguel is lovely. Tons of expats.Mexico is scary. I know most of the tourist areas are safe but wouldn't want to move to a country to live like a tourist. For me, Uruguay is a small Argentina. Asunción is really nice, I love it but for me personally, I want a place within 2 or 3 hours flight to the US as I hate flying (National Geographic, Mayday).