I'll bite.
The Spectator (UK rag) began the Shiva Naipaul award for writing (in English) about understanding a different culture or country in memory of one of my favorite writers, V.S. Naipaul. So, of course I bought a copy when it first hit book stores. Miranda France won the Shiva Naipaul Memorial Award for her account about living here. Although it’s about 1993, the publishing date is 1999. Sadly, Miranda France is no V.S. Naipaul, but then writers of his caliber are rare. So, any comparisons are unfair. Still, someone decided she deserved the award.
Bearing those facts in mind, yes, I've read this personal account of living in Buenos Aires as well as, if I recall correctly, her experience floating on agricultural islands of one of the few indigenous tribes not completely killed off by European settlers, and brief summaries of the less populated provinces being wholly owned by the uber rich. Her surprise at what she describes as the bronca of Porteños, or Argentines in general, -- the ability to lose one's cool in public -- I found terribly amusing. It rarely amounts to little more than lots of yelling and marginal shoving. Granted, the idea of hot blooded Latins is a stereotype, but it's one not without merit. Latin culture is publicly emotional. Try crossing the frontiers of Argentina on a summer weekend and experience the crowds who are clamoring for visas to travel to Chile or Brazil in the northern provinces for a “restful” vacation. Yelling and screaming is not so much a demonstration of dangerous public anger as it is a public sport for letting off steam. And her observations regarding Peron and populism, the worshiping of Evita in the Recoleta Necropolis, and how Che, Eva, and others are romantic icons Argentines are unwilling to give up are basically true; but no more so than are the icons of Elvis and Marilyn that harken to a different, romanticized era up north and across much of Europe.
Again, one must remember this is a book written by a Brit who arrived in BsAs with a preconceived idea of what BsAs should be and had an especially difficult time reconciling her ethnocentric views of the world with reality. France lived in Brazil for a while and was/is supposedly a Latin American scholar, which I believe to be inaccurate (note, that’s MY opinion and you all are free to possess your own). I remember her writing style to often be humorously dismissive, looking down upon the culture she was supposedly trying to recant. As a journalist she failed to separate her personal feelings from objective observation. But I suppose I should find my copy and reread it again. As for historical accuracy, she had the timeline of the country’s history, governments and horrors in correct order -- up to 1993. But anyone could do that from the armchair of a good library -- pre Internet. She claims to be multilingual and drew her conclusions from talking extensively with all the "sad" Argentines she encountered. Predictably, Borges and the Tango were the only intellectual high points she found worthy to extol about Argentine culture. But then, the title of the book reveals a great deal, it's about her time here in 1993. It is now 2006 (again, publishing date is 1999). A lot has changed. A lot hasn't. One of the things that has changed is the air pollution France complained about which has been dramatically reduced due to new combustible fuels and autos with more efficient internal combustion engines.
Pointedly, I feel she's not the best person to read for clues about the Latin mentality, whether it's Argentina, any parts of South and Central Americas, or Spain. As a “scholar” she avoided discussing a major aspect of Argentine society and manners, the grand gesture, which is still taken seriously in most Spanish-speaking countries. Therefore, when one suggests “Let’s do lunch,” Latins are ready with their appointment books and pens to make that date rather than just mentally pencil you in. For me, France’s little tome was lopsided; she came looking for proof to support her preconceptions, despite claiming the opposite. This tends to be constant thread among English speakers who show up here thinking the streets are paved with their preconceptions and are hard pressed to be flexible. For example, how many out there have read
Love in the Time of Cholera (another of my favorite books, by G. Marquez) and know that it is a not so metaphorical romance about class and political warfare in Argentina and BsAs in particular. Although nowhere will you find the name of the country and city about which Marquez writes, but he colors a damn good description of the geography and economic highs and lows of Argentina from about 1800 to 1900.
But just as it has been constantly repeated by others who post to this site, Buenos Aires and Argentina are not for everyone. If you suffered culture shock when you visited here, try doing something constructive with that energy besides being negative. If you ever get the chance to travel to another Central or South American country, why not donate your excess of free time (after all, you’re on vacation, right?) by volunteering at a local foundation during your stay. For example, Leer, a not-for-profit organization in Buenos Aires, needs volunteers to help teach illiterate adults who have fallen through the cracks of the educational system to read. Foundación Par needs volunteers to help the deaf and blind get to and from their training center where they are taught computer skills. Only one person through this web site has inquired about what she/he could do as a volunteer in this country to help be part of the solutions rather than the perceived problems. But hey, that’s just me. My heart bleeds and I proudly wear it on my left sleeve.
May I recommend a more accurate overview of Argentina and BsAs,
The Argentina Reader: History, Culture, Politics (Latin America in Translation/En Traduccion/Em Traducao) by
Gabriela Nouzeilles (Editor),
Graciela R. Montaldo (Editor), which is a compilation of stuff from South American writers? And for those who think Andrew Lloyd Weber is worth making fun of, (and I do), check out
And the Money Kept Rolling In (and Out): Wall Street, the IMF, and the Bankrupting of Argentina by
Paul Blustein. As for travel writing that still holds up after all these years, there is always Bruce Chatwin’s
In Patagonia, a great pack of lies and tall tales well hewn to keep you wondering. There’s no lack of political, travel, and journalistic essay writing on this amazing country. For the English Only readers, there’s a book store called Books In English, on M.T. Avelar before or after the cross street Uruguay. And for those of you who have made it this far in my response to Bigbadwolf (who is most likely enjoying a Minneapolis winter) and are still considering visiting Buenos Aires, be advised that coming armed with a smattering of Spanish so you can speak with the locals means you’ll have a much different view/experience of this country than those who show up without the ability to communicate with Argentines on their own turf. If you don’t know Spanish, then consider doing something useful with part of your time here by taking beginner classes in the local language. After all, you can eat expensive chunks of cow at home, but you can only learn Lunfardo in Buenos Aires.
Oh, and as a post script, has anyone see Sally Potter’s 1997 film,
The Tango Lesson? No less than four middle-aged single women whom I knew as free spirits from my days at university have taken the opportunity to come down here, stay with me, and learn the Tango. Definitely worth renting and viewing as the summer rains clean the streets of this city.
