Thanks. I'm more interested, though, in where serious players congregate -- you can distinguish them by their gaunt, famished looks and threadbare clothes. Argentina is known for its chess players, and indeed a very strong tournament has just finished in San Luis. I was wondering where exactly to make a beeline for when I hit Buenos Aires.
Found it. The Buenos Aires Chess Club is at Paraguay 1858, where they have daily tournaments. They also have the chairs and table used by Capablanca and Alekhine in the 1927 World Championship Match, as well as the table and pieces used by Petrosian and Fischer in the World Semi-Finals in 1971. I stood in mute wonder and took a few photos ... that was a different era.