Tourist questions : Cash for three weeks in BA?

[FrankPintor]

it's been awhile since i ate at osaka, but a few years ago it was my favorite place here. i enjoyed the fusion dishes, it was never about the sushi for me.

service can be notoriously slow here so you should keep your expectations low here for excellent wait staff.

Yes, the Peruvian-Japanese fusion at Osaka is much more interesting I thought.

Just went to Sintesis in Recoleta tonight, just under 8000 pesos for two, with a shared starter, ramen, two caipirinhas and a 500ml rosé (Mia, 2020, very nice). I saw they have carafes of American and Japanese sake for under 2000 pesos, and they have always had a well-stocked bar.

 

[Rishiray]

Second day observations:

1. Taxis and Ubers are fucking amazing with the exchange:
   I'm sure all the locals are going to be in frenzy about this observation or fact. When a taxi starts at 111 pesos and whipping around the city from Puerto Madero to Calle Florida for changing money (390 pesos for a 15 min ride in traffic) or going to La Americana at 1.30am for late night pizza (Uber was 420 pesos for a 13 min ride) .. why the fuck would any tourist ever walk ... if you're on errands? I think Buenos Aires across the 100+ countries (sorry if this appears to be a flex) I've visited is easily one of the most walkable and pretty cities in the world. That being said when you're from a place with cities like Toronto where a 15 min ride downtown can easily be the equivalent of 3000 pesos or more if there is an Uber surge ... taxis are a generally safe bargain. (I'm sure someone can pull out incidents where taxi drivers were involved in setups or sting operations or something from a movie ...)
2. Getting a phone:
   Getting SIM cards. This was 75 mins of my life that I will never get back. Why it takes two women to figure this out in a stall at the airport is incredible. However, after all was and said and done ... the 800 peso package for 3 Gigs of data and unlimited Whatsapp is pretty decent.
   
   That was yesterday's complaint... but obviously having a cell phone and access to maps and translations makes 800 pesos from the airport another bargain.
3. Pizza in BsAs is awesome:
   After my Osaka debacle on the first night, I decided to back to basic principles of sticking to shit that people in that country or city get fucking right! Pizza and pasta here are always right ... steak is always right ... empanadas here are always right (fight among yourselves in front this tourist about that )
   
   First pizza after changing money downtown ... story to come after ... was here at Las Cuartetas :
   
   
   
   The second pizza was from La Americana at 2am - It was wonderful ... and I don't eat dairy ... so cheeseless pizza! When a small pizza costs 1100 pesos (5.50 USD - more than enough for me and I eat a lot) or 2100 pesos for a large (enough for 3 people) ... it's a damn winner. You can live on pizza alone.
   
4. Changing money downtown:
   This was by far the most anxiety causing mission of yesterday but a friend sent me along to her trusted money changer yesterday. This reminded me of giant stacks of bills in Uzbekistan ... shown below ... because I can't show my stack of pesos right now.
   
   With the combination of taking a taxi, wandering all the money changers on Calle Florida till I found the right guy inside a mall... message me and I'll tell you the guy. I guess no one wants to publicly put money changers online ... then going for lunch with a bag full of money ...
   

 

[Rishiray]

Btw the rate I got yesterday was 201 to 1 ... in case anyone was wondering. A very decent rate for sure.

 

[Rishiray]

Second day observations:

1. Taxis and Ubers are fucking amazing with the exchange:
   I'm sure all the locals are going to be in frenzy about this observation or fact. When a taxi starts at 111 pesos and whipping around the city from Puerto Madero to Calle Florida for changing money (390 pesos for a 15 min ride in traffic) or going to La Americana at 1.30am for late night pizza (Uber was 420 pesos for a 13 min ride) .. why the fuck would any tourist ever walk ... if you're on errands? I think Buenos Aires across the 100+ countries (sorry if this appears to be a flex) I've visited is easily one of the most walkable and pretty cities in the world. That being said when you're from a place with cities like Toronto where a 15 min ride downtown can easily be the equivalent of 3000 pesos or more if there is an Uber surge ... taxis are a generally safe bargain. (I'm sure someone can pull out incidents where taxi drivers were involved in setups or sting operations or something from a movie ...)
2. Getting a phone:
   Getting SIM cards. This was 75 mins of my life that I will never get back. Why it takes two women to figure this out in a stall at the airport is incredible. However, after all was and said and done ... the 800 peso package for 3 Gigs of data and unlimited Whatsapp is pretty decent.
   
   That was yesterday's complaint... but obviously having a cell phone and access to maps and translations makes 800 pesos from the airport another bargain.
3. Pizza in BsAs is awesome:
   After my Osaka debacle on the first night, I decided to back to basic principles of sticking to shit that people in that country or city get fucking right! Pizza and pasta here are always right ... steak is always right ... empanadas here are always right (fight among yourselves in front this tourist about that )
   
   First pizza after changing money downtown ... story to come after ... was here at Las Cuartetas :
   View attachment 8142View attachment 8140
   View attachment 8141
   
   The second pizza was from La Americana at 2am - It was wonderful ... and I don't eat dairy ... so cheeseless pizza! When a small pizza costs 1100 pesos (5.50 USD - more than enough for me and I eat a lot) or 2100 pesos for a large (enough for 3 people) ... it's a damn winner. You can live on pizza alone.
   View attachment 8144View attachment 8143
4. Changing money downtown:
   This was by far the most anxiety causing mission of yesterday but a friend sent me along to her trusted money changer yesterday. This reminded me of giant stacks of bills in Uzbekistan ... shown below ... because I can't show my stack of pesos right now.
   
   With the combination of taking a taxi, wandering all the money changers on Calle Florida till I found the right guy inside a mall... message me and I'll tell you the guy. I guess no one wants to publicly put money changers online ... then going for lunch with a bag full of money ...
   View attachment 8145

Sorry for the potty mouth on today's post. And this picture is Uzbek Som ... not Argentine pesos.

 

[Fatty Tuna]

Here's a whole day plan in Palermo:

1. Morning
Japanese Garden, JardinJapones.org.ar., Casares 3450 in Palermo. Authentic Japanese garden experience. Enjoy an hour or more strolling the grounds. There's a Japanese restaurant with lunch for US$5 to $10. Food is OK for the price. Sake is on the menu, but didn't try it.

2. Check out some of the special cafes around town: https://www.laguiadebuenosaires.com/cafes-de-especialidad-en-buenos-aires/

3. Late afternoon meal or dinner:
An alternative to premium-priced Don Julio, is "La Payuca" at Arenales 3443, near the Alto Palermo mall. Open noon to late night. Lunch set menu (small steak, fries, drink) from noon to 4pm, less than USD$10. I prefer the bigger steaks on the regular menu, which go for about half the price of Don Julio. We ordered 300g steaks from the regular menu, and with a glass of house wine, less than $30 for two. Excellent. For parents, they offer a kids play floor upstairs.

4. Dessert
Next door to Don Julio, the famous steak restaurant, is possibly the best made-from-scratch cake cafe in town, "Kajue Cafe" at Guatemala 4665, Palermo Soho. Specializing in several varieties of cheesecake, carrot cake and others. The young owner went to cake school in Colombia, and speaks good English. Friendly staff.

5. Bar:
Don't miss the Alcatraz prison-themed speakeasy bar, "The Hole", in Palermo Soho, at Armenia 1743, half a block from Costa Rica, open until 3am. Even has a vintage car from Prohibition era, and fake guns. Sushi is on the menu. It can be hard to get in on the weekend, as a long que forms even before they open at 8pm, so a weekday night may be best.

 

[Rishiray]

Third day observations:

1. Local food is fantastic : Duh
   Today was an errand day, however after errands, I needed a steak. My friend and I went to Cabildo's for lunch. The fixe price menu
   After about 25 seconds of deliberation : I went for the Gran Bife de Chorizo. I'm definitely going to stick to this type of menu. Pizza, pasta, steak and empanadas. They substituted white wine for us. I couldn't even finish the bottle... since my friend doesn't drink. I had to work after. Anyway I was very happy with the food. I had to work after... it was not very productive.
   
   

 

[Rishiray]

Here's a whole day plan in Palermo:

1. Morning
Japanese Garden, JardinJapones.org.ar., Casares 3450 in Palermo. Authentic Japanese garden experience. Enjoy an hour or more strolling the grounds. There's a Japanese restaurant with lunch for US$5 to $10. Food is OK for the price. Sake is on the menu, but didn't try it.

2. Check out some of the special cafes around town: https://www.laguiadebuenosaires.com/cafes-de-especialidad-en-buenos-aires/

3. Late afternoon meal or dinner:
An alternative to premium-priced Don Julio, is "La Payuca" at Arenales 3443, near the Alto Palermo mall. Open noon to late night. Lunch set menu (small steak, fries, drink) from noon to 4pm, less than USD$10. I prefer the bigger steaks on the regular menu, which go for about half the price of Don Julio. We ordered 300g steaks from the regular menu, and with a glass of house wine, less than $30 for two. Excellent. For parents, they offer a kids play floor upstairs.

4. Dessert
Next door to Don Julio, the famous steak restaurant, is possibly the best made-from-scratch cake cafe in town, "Kajue Cafe" at Guatemala 4665, Palermo Soho. Specializing in several varieties of cheesecake, carrot cake and others. The young owner went to cake school in Colombia, and speaks good English. Friendly staff.

5. Bar:
Don't miss the Alcatraz prison-themed speakeasy bar, "The Hole", in Palermo Soho, at Armenia 1743, half a block from Costa Rica, open until 3am. Even has a vintage car from Prohibition era, and fake guns. Sushi is on the menu. It can be hard to get in on the weekend, as a long que forms even before they open at 8pm, so a weekday night may be best.

100% going to follow this itinerary and the The Hole...

 

[Rich One]

Here's a whole day plan in Palermo:

1. Morning
Japanese Garden, JardinJapones.org.ar., Casares 3450 in Palermo. Authentic Japanese garden experience. Enjoy an hour or more strolling the grounds. There's a Japanese restaurant with lunch for US$5 to $10. Food is OK for the price. Sake is on the menu, but didn't try it.

2. Check out some of the special cafes around town: https://www.laguiadebuenosaires.com/cafes-de-especialidad-en-buenos-aires/

3. Late afternoon meal or dinner:
An alternative to premium-priced Don Julio, is "La Payuca" at Arenales 3443, near the Alto Palermo mall. Open noon to late night. Lunch set menu (small steak, fries, drink) from noon to 4pm, less than USD$10. I prefer the bigger steaks on the regular menu, which go for about half the price of Don Julio. We ordered 300g steaks from the regular menu, and with a glass of house wine, less than $30 for two. Excellent. For parents, they offer a kids play floor upstairs.

4. Dessert
Next door to Don Julio, the famous steak restaurant, is possibly the best made-from-scratch cake cafe in town, "Kajue Cafe" at Guatemala 4665, Palermo Soho. Specializing in several varieties of cheesecake, carrot cake and others. The young owner went to cake school in Colombia, and speaks good English. Friendly staff.

5. Bar:
Don't miss the Alcatraz prison-themed speakeasy bar, "The Hole", in Palermo Soho, at Armenia 1743, half a block from Costa Rica, open until 3am. Even has a vintage car from Prohibition era, and fake guns. Sushi is on the menu. It can be hard to get in on the weekend, as a long que forms even before they open at 8pm, so a weekday night may be best.

True, La Payuca is a great parrilla at moderate prices, as you mention, perhaps $2000 pesos per person. Enjoyed your postings.

 

[Rishiray]

6th Day Observations:

Day tripping to Lujan:

1. I visited Lujan 8 years ago. It's a beautiful church and a great place for a day trip. Now when I say day trip... I would say plan out two things for your visit... the Church and finding some Parilla. Here's the church...
   
   
   
   
   
   
2. Here's the second part of the visit ... the meat. Btw there is an amusement park and "skycar", that you can visit. However, the place doesn't look like it has been taken care of since I visited 8 years ago. Your mileage may vary on that visit.
   
   
3. Specifically, after the church it was on to a very hole in the wall Parilla (Parilla Lo De Sandra). Here's a screenshot of the map and if you're looking for notes or an updated travel map : List of places I've visited in Buenos Aires
   
   
   - It's one of the these wonderful local places, like you would see in Trinidad. There was no English involved... so my rudimentary Spanish combined with the Google translate app really worked magic here.
   - The house menu for the all you can eat Parilla : Chorizo sausage, Blood Sausage, Cow's intestine (Fried), Kidney, Beef Short Rib, Roast Pork along with Fries, Bread and Dessert.
   
   
   
   - Now i'm not a big organ meat kinda person. I have to really know a place before I eat that stuff. I didn't take pictures of all the meat. However it was primarily sausage, short rib and pork ... 2 hours later. I could barely move and we had to get back to the city for some drinking at Floreria.
   
   

Floreria Atlantico drinking session:

1. I visited this bar twice, 8 years ago before they were actually a big time bar.
2. Drink: Viedma - carmen de patagones $830
   Ingredients: Pomace, ratafia, cut wood, salt, tomatoes.
   My notes: Reminscent of a regular Manhattan. Smoky elements but incomplete drink. Would not repeat.
   
   
3. Drink: Colonia Lujan 830
   Ingredients: Homemade Sake, Príncipe de los Apóstoles,kombucha with ginger and honey and flower honey,mandarin.
   My notes: Fantastic drink made by Rosario (I think) Repeated multiple times this night. Service for this first drink was excellent,my drink appeared in less than 3 mins. Then she disappeared and Lissandro took over and the whole service experience went to shit from there.
   
   
4. Drink: Moises Ville 832 pesos
   Ingredients: El Profeta, Pan Vodka, Arak, pickled cucumbers.
   My notes: This tasted like a cross of a pickleback martini and aniseed. Interesting and dry. Would not repeat but I think it is a decent concept drink. This drink took 25 mins to from Lissandro
   
   
5. Drink: Margarita Belén $850
   Ingredients: Brandy Cocchi americano, mead, organic cotton
   My notes: Thistasted like a Negroni Sbagliato. So I did quite like this one, however I could not discern the purpose of the "organic cotton" nor could Lissandro explain why the cotton was there or whether it was edible (It was not). This organic cotton was the source of much laughter and consternation on the sourcing of said cotton.
   
   
6. Im getting lazy now ... but we did taste all of the Negronis but some of these ingredients like "Water from the Atlantic Ocean" ... like what?
   

Overall it was fantastic day but a note on the Floreria service. A poorly trained service mixologist can ruin a really good place. My first 2 visits there in 2014 were phenomenal (Floreria from 2014).
Our visit last night was simply poor because of crappy service from a short staffed and poorly trained bartender. He was unable to prioritize, figure out service, communicate with his other bar tender, had a short temper and didn't seem to know the menu or the food. I did speak to William (manager) there and communicated all of this to him and he implored me to come back but I'm a tourist with lots of things to see. However, the drinks are fantastic!

 

[Millie]

Amazing photos
Congrats