Can it be? Great restaurant dining in Bs. As.

John Sieh

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Among the most frustrating things I have found living in Argentina the past 8 years has been the dining scene in Buenos Aires. I found it mainly consistently disappointing with the same old, same old menus, little variety, as well as the mediocre food and service. My reference base was that of a being native New Yorker, so what other city can beat New York City´s dining scene? Well, all that changed though, when I met Perry and went out dining with him. There are lots of restaurants I can recommend now.
I will recommend four places up-front:
Crizia in Palermo Soho is my favorite. Not only is it a place where the rich and famous media personalities hang out, but everything there is special from the moment you arrive. The bread dish is unique and to die for (you have to eat it all and order more). The salad was really full of greens: It looked and felt healthy. My main course of Patagonian lamb was prepared to my liking of medium rare and was the best I have ever had in my life.
Mott, also in Palermo Soho, is my second favorite. It is welcoming, appealing to the eye, has a very international staff, makes mean mojitos and pisco sours. Our dinner there consisted of a finely-squeezed, straight from the source pumpkin soup and a seafood wok with rice that was very healthy and light. Dessert was a killer tiramisu that puts most porteño confiterias to shame.
Mochica is in Almagro and Peruvian to the tee for all you Peru fans: It is welcoming in décor and service. Our waiter was the friendliest, fastest and most efficient waiter in Argentina. We started with a papa a la huancaina, which was better than any potato I ever tried in Peru. The main dish was a seafood combination that was abundant as delicious. I took leftovers home that lasted me two days. Surprisingly, for how expensive dining can be these days, the bill here can be reasonable.
El Farol is also in Almagro. It is as good Italian as it can get in Italy itself, a rare find in this city full of people of Italian heritage with generally bad, low quality Italian food. The owner is very welcoming and there is a strong neighborhood feel to the place. There is a very nice spread of antipasto dishes presented on a table for all to start with. I had a black pasta with shrimp dish that simply melted in your mouth.
Your thoughts, additions and recommendations?
 
I'm peruvian and i miss very much the spicy and seafood. So, i tried in Ceviche a peruvian/japanese restaurant, located in Palermo Hollywood, every fish dish was good even though i dont like the mixing peruvian/japanese. Then tried in Francesco, it's in Las Cañitas, the ceviche and tiradito were delicious, spicy as i like it! And finally i tried in Sipan, located in Microcentro, for me it was the best, all seafood incredibly delicious, the waiters were great and very nice telling me that, the red thing is called rocoto and it's veryyy spicy! ( as i didnt know it and i wasnt brave enough lol) the dessert called clasico was awesome. In all of them the pisco sours were made very good!!!
 
Sure you can get good food in B.A. but it's the exception. It has remarkably few good restaurants for a city of 8 million. Maybe people can come up with 10 to 20 eateries that are decent, this is enough for me, I can avoid the rest.
 
I've found that the majority of the good restaurants that i've been to in BA are outside of Palermo so my best advice to expats is to hop in a taxi.
 
Imagine living six years in New York and being able to come up with only three or four restaurants you can recommend! The truth, though, is that there has been an enormous change in the BA restaurant scene. I actually miss the type of traditional restaurant that is fast disappearing - waiters in white jackets, totally predictable menu, same old wine list. It was boring but it was really Argentine. To change a restaurant culture the people have to change. I guess with globalization that is happening. Are Argentines now more open to different styles of cooking? Are they willing to experiment with herbs or spices? Or are these fashionable Palermo places just for a tiny minority?
 
Philsword said:
Sure you can get good food in B.A. but it's the exception. It has remarkably few good restaurants for a city of 8 million. Maybe people can come up with 10 to 20 eateries that are decent, this is enough for me, I can avoid the rest.
What would those 10 or 20 include out of curiosity?
 
JaseW said:
What would those 10 or 20 include out of curiosity?
A few of mine in no particular order

Tomo I
Otoxo*
Le Sud
Tipúla
Status*
Chila
Laurak Bat*
Piola
Yuki
Restó
Osaka


* some menu items exceptional, others not so much
 
There are great restaurants in Buenos Aires especially in Palermo and Almagro the two barrios with the best quality food.

Last night I ate in a incredible restaurant Los Pizaros on Thames and Guemes . The chef is a legend and the food is outstanding from entre to main course and desert.

Last night I had Mollejas with a lime and garlic salsa, prawn risotto , and arroz con leche con quinotos . 10/10 for flavours
 
Restaurants are definitely getting better, and (just as important!) more consistent.
 
I think restaurants are like friends..there has to be a common chemistry and as an ex Caballito resident I thoroughly second the recommendation of El Farol and Mochica which were both firm favourites with consistently great food e.g the centolla (king crab) ravioli in El Farol. Olviedo has bene recommended many a times before and still is a great place to eat every time.
 
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