I love it. It is home for me, even though I tried to resist it for so long.
As to the foreign crowd here, think Hemingway's Paris. unfortunately, the talent stays at home in front of their apple macs and tend to shun any form of discomfort Buenos Aires would afford them. Most foreigners are in the push category rather than pull category; they have been sent here by work or ostracised by the motherland for their abnormal behaviour, which becomes ever more apparent here.
There seem to me to be a few distinct types of Ex-pat:
The Rich Young Thing, here to drink and party and wait until there parents come down here to drag them back and/or cut them off.
The Missionary, posted down here by an international company. Loving being paid in Dollars/Euros and living in pesos but quickly gives up trying to kick any sense of order into their native colleagues, "This isn't a franchise goddamit!"
The Castaway, doesn't really know how he ended up here, nor how he can afford to move on. Someone once told them in a night club in Majorca that Buenos Aires has a beach. They have been bitterly disappointed ever since.
The Diplobrat, either actual diplomat or progeny of, can be charming or hideously spoilt.
The Happy Ending, they fell in love and/or had a kid here. The audience cheered, stood up, walked out. Nobody paused to think that the story continues.
The Ex-pat within an Ex-pat, usually an Argentine who has come back from Miami with dollars in the back pocket, but realises he has no connection to his former countrymen, seeks solace amongst Ex-pats.
The Temporary; students, travellers, life-changers who quickly revert back again. By far the largest group. Here for a year a best. Can be really hard to show interest when meeting them. Sometimes it just too tiring to make friends who are going to be gone in months (always up for a party though).
The city itself, well, right now it is as hot as balls. Get some air conditioning. I didn't. It has a nice balance of scarves and gloves for about 3 weeks in winter and breakfast on the terrace from August until April.
The architecture is really pleasing. from the grand French boulevard edificios, to the low lying, Spanish colonial casas, to the valiant, intricate and pitted jumble of the villas.
Food and drink will initially disappoint. You adapt and learn. Cooking skills definitely improve here. There is no way I would have ever learnt to make my own chutney or sweet chilli sauce before coming here.
Restaurants are affordable and relaxing. You don't get churned out through gritted teeth of reservations and turnovers and last orders. You can turn up at 9pm and leave at midnight. Service is slow and not geared towards tips. It can be incomprehensible at first, and many people never come to understand it, but it is a wonderful way to eat. Not in and out and drinks on the table in under 5 minutes and orders taken in 10, but an event. Enjoyment is at the discernment of the consumer; take your time.
Security I take no more seriously or lightly than a European capital. All the incidents you hear about on this forum are usual the result of something. A door left unlocked, misplaced trust, appearing just a bit too foreign or affluent in the street. You can still dress well and carry your camera and phone. Just don't leave them on the café table nor get them out on the subway nor at night. Try not to talk too loudly in English at the wrong time (you should be able to determine this). Its peanuts really, just when you do slip up, it will be a knife or a gun at you.
Culturally it rocks. I don't have the force to write with enough passion about this right now.
The people. Are wonderful. Hard to approach at first but Spanish classes (even if your Spanish is good) and groups and societies and local bars and cafes, just taking an extra two minutes to talk to your neighbours or portero or store proprietor will introduce you into their customs and attitudes.
I am still continually shocked at times as to the kindness shown by strangers.
It is especially easily if you live in a barrio other than Palermo. I love Palermo, but it is a bit of an island. I have friends who have lived there two years and still cant roll their rrrrrrrr´s (it tolls for thee).
Social attitides towards children is great. Family is important here, if alone you may find yourself incorporated into a family dinner or get together without option ni hesitation.
On the bad side there is no Marmite here.
It is an amazing place to live and I haven't even started talking about outside Capital yet. Argentina outside of Buenos Aires is another entity, different country, amazing and complicated in its own way.
This forum is here to answer questions and gripe. DO NOT take it as your sole source to life here as an Ex-pat.
What else? Cigarettes and cigars are cheaper - overall the best Italian food I have tasted - mmmh - running out of steam now - I think need to refill that glass - but yes, overall - I have definitely been in worse places - this is only my second time here and I am only a few weeks into it - but so far I have found a lot of good stuff - I already have an established network of local friends and I have to say I have more of a social life here than I ever had back home 