The first night we are in Buenos Aires this year, we took the bus over to Centro Cultural Recoleta. One of the ways Argentina differs from the US is the concept of the Centro Cultural, of which there are many, with varying degrees of government support. It has constant visual art shows, film presentations, performances, classes, and events. All free, of course. And, especially in the summer, outdoor concerts. Villa Diamante, an incredible local musician, DJ, and scenemaker, has been curating a series this year called Pachamama Cosmica, on Thursday evenings.
Tonight featured a DJ set by Barda, and then a performance by a collaborative group called Ensamble Folklórico Digital including members of Bienvenidos A La Computadora, Alejandro Lauphan, Rumbo Tumba, San Ignacio, Cehache Respira y Villa Diamante.
We arrived early, to find the main terraza, a beautiful terrace overlooking the park, is not accessible due to construction, but instead we go to the patio de Aljibe, which is a smaller courtyard in the complex.
We saw many of our friends, and had a chance to talk before the set began, with Barda and Gus, her frequent collaborator. She is one of the many musicians these days who are called “DJ's” but in reality are much more. She does play portions of songs, both her own, and those of other musicians- but mixes them, adds beats, samples, live vocals, live acoustic instruments, and, in general, creates improvised music on the spot, using previously recorded songs as only one of her many sources. Not exactly Dick Clark. This hybridized way of creating music is becoming quite common around the world, but doesnt fit into the traditional division between DJ and musician- instead, it spans both. I have seen Barda before- she is magical, part folklorico, part electronic, a perfect music for a warm summer night. Gus drops in and out of the hour long mix, singing a bit, then falling back and letting Barda change the mood. As she plays, the patio fills up, by 8:00 pm there are a couple of hundred people there, chatting, listening, sipping on beers. Dancers from the greater familia moved among the crowd all evening- The Dance collecitve Manada is in the house, a group that translates as something like “The Herd” and who call their style animal dance. Goth, hip hop, trancing and dancing in ones and twos and herds, they come and go all night.
After about an hour, Barda ends her set, and Ensamble Folklorico Digital begins, with computers, beat machines, charengo, bass, and an acoustic guitar played with a bow, along with a rapper, and a variety of vocalists. This is one of the new sounds of Argentina, a combination of electronics and hip hop with Gurani, gaucho, and andean sounds, mixed with the history of rock, and jazz, ambient and dance.
We weary travellers bow out before it ends, taking the 92 collectivo home.