I've been in Medellin for a couple of weeks and here is my comparison with BA. This is from the perspective of a retired (i.e. not-working) lifestyle.
Medellin is known as the City of Eternal Spring. The temperature remains constant throughout the year because of the elevation and being near the equator. For me it's a little warm but I think most people would find it perfect.
The major Pro is that the food is the best I've had in Latin America. I was expecting it to be similar to Ecuador and it is but with better quality and more culinary finesse. The restaurants I have been to, I've been pleasantly surprised by the quality 80 percent of the time - the inverse of BA. Also I estimate the food is about 25% cheaper in restaurants than BA.
The Parque Lleras entertainment area in Poblado packed with interesting restaurants, shops, bars and hotels.
Another Pro is the price of electronics (not sure about other goods but I expect they are also priced comparatively). I estimate the premium on US prices is 15 to 25%, which makes them cheaper than anywhere else I've been to in South America. For example a bargain basement unlocked, no-contract Android phone can be had for about $50 in the US, in Medellin around $65, in BA at least $100.
The selection of electronics is much better in Medellin than in BA, for example if you are shopping for a notebook in BA you might feel, like I do, that I am in in a Dell museum of notebooks from the 90's - that is zero styling, heavy and totally unappealing. Although there isn't the selection of the US, the notebooks in Medellin are up-to-date in appearance, weight and features.
One reason goods are relatively cheap in Colombia is that the country has engaged in free trade agreements with many countries. I've been able to buy a box of German (and Polish) made cookies for $3 on sale. Unfortunately I've been buying a lot of these...
On the negative, apartments are much more expensive - surprisingly expensive: twice the rent of Ecuador and 25 to 30% more than BA. No ideal why.
Yesterday I took the city tour and some parts of the city feel unsafe - and these are the highlights spots of the city tour. The Poblado neighborhood feels totally safe.
Medellin has no interesting architecture. Any colonial neighborhoods were long ago demolished.
I see Medellin as a great place to go for a vacation. Enjoy the food and do some shopping.
In January I will get out of the big city and visit the mountain towns with colonial architecture and coffee plantations.
Interesting report, Joe. I have to admit I chuckled at the amount of emphasis placed on food and electronics, but since you're coming from BA that makes perfect sense. But I notice you didn't say anything about the people! What do you think of the paisas?
As for the sketchiness, I bet it was the Plaza Botero, wasn't it? With all the sculptures? That whole area is...meh. Which is unfortunate, because there are a lot of great cultural and historical attractions right around there. My husband and I got followed for two blocks by a desperate (and very, uh, energetic) crackhead trying to leave the Plaza Botero. And even if that hadn't happened, it was just not a place where I felt secure. They have cops in the plaza, which helps, but outside the plaza, not so much. Taking the teleférico up to the market and back down over the slums, on the other hand, was a delightful and tranquil experience.
I think the beautiful mountain views and plants make up for the lack of interesting architecture. I love plants, though, so I probably pay more attention to landscaping and trees and stuff stuff than the average person. My husband took me around the campus of the Universidad de Antioquia, where he went to school, and I kept stopping to take pictures of the gorgeous orchids and birds of paradise everywhere. I really enjoyed the botanical garden as well. One day I'll make it to the yearly flower festival!
Rent is really expensive all over Colombia (at least for furnished apartments in the cities). It's pretty ridiculous. And if you don't get a furnished place, you need TWO garantías. On the bright side, all the crazy crap that happens in Buenos Aires (gas getting shut off for months at a time, legal action constantly threatened/having to make threats, humidity problems, extremely rude/noisy neighbors, power outages, etc.) is pretty uncommon. Respecting your neighbors is a big deal. Administration will put signs up in the elevators reminding you to control your dog/child, to refrain from wearing high heels to early or too late because they make noise, letting you know they will be shutting the water off for repairs between X and Y o'clock two days from now, etc. Completely different culture when it comes to that stuff. And if there is a problem, a simple call down to the doorman to complain (politely--no need to yell) usually takes care of it. For some expats, all of this may be worth paying U.S. $1000+ per month for a small one bedroom in a decent area.
Have fun in the mountain towns! Hope you report back.
