Favourite Cafe In Bsas

[PhilinBSAS]

I used to love to drop in this cafe on the way home from work.
Every Thursday an old boy comes and plays some lovely ditties on the piano for an hour from 7pm. The hordes stream past this largely ignored gem on their commute home leaving just a few curious people and couples in encounters. It's peaceful sitting in an obscenely spacious cafe situated in the main transport hub of a furious city at rush hour, observing the torment of the masses plodding their weary way past the windows either side, with you observing from within, all the while your peace being disturbed with slurps of cafe between the dulcet notes coming from the antiquated pairing in the corner.
The cafe, I assume, was built by the British along with the Retiro station. It has a Victorian feel to it that has been lost in train stations in the UK. You can sit and imagine what was, and what could have been.

Glad you agree. Built 1909-1915 Architects. Eustace Condor and Sydney Follet and some say Roger Condor and with Engineers Reginald Reynolds for the newly expanded Central Argentine Railway formed by the merger with the Buenos Aires and Rosario Railway in 1908. Considered to be in the "French Style" - i.e with at least some concessions to Art Nouveau e.g in the concourse interior and regarded as a highly significant building for its elegance and spaciousness.

Here is the Directory of Scottish Architects entry for Eustace http://www.scottisha...l.php?id=205018 - the RIBA are very slow in putting their directory online!!!

There is a huge map in the concourse on the wall behind glass near the delightful booking hall showing the full extent of the network in the 1940s - connecting as far as Bolivia when parts of the former French owned broad gauge were added to form the Mitre - FCGBM

Other parts of the Mitre have to me a strong "Home Counties" feel in their architecture and civil engineering - Belgrano R Colegiales Pueyrredon and Mitre especially with the fretwork bargeboards on the canopies still intact, the wrought iron pedestrian bridges etc. The BA School of Architecture has supported a number of conservation groups eg the Friends of Colegiales Station to keep these details preserved

But you surely cant be totally serious that the "Victorian" feel has been lost in British Railway Stations? St Pancras is a total gem, Kings Cross (now the horrible 70's booking hall is about to be demolished), Waverley Bristol Temple Meads Brighton etc etc. Believe me you cant do a thing without listed building consent in fact the whole conservation movement thing was started in the 1960s by as much Betjemans outcry over the vandalism of Euston

In fact the lyricism of your description of the Cafe at Retiro makes me almost suspect you have internalised Betjeman with your Cafe Cortardo!!

 

[Napoleon]

Las Violetas in Caballito

Las Violetas is actually in Almagro, but it's almost to Caballito.

I like to say that everything consumed with the eyes is amazing. Everything consumed with the mouth is totally underwhelming.

Mine is Malvón in Villa Crespo. Especially for breakfast or brunch: http://www.malvonba.com.ar/

Love it as well. Especially their baked goods.


BUT... my favorite is probably "Cafe Dorrego" (or "Bar Dorrego" or "Bar Plaza Dorrego"...). Whatever you want to call it, the location, the saloon doors, the million images of Carlos Gardel, the carved names everywhere from the last ~130 years. It's just awesome.

And, with the pressure from La Estrellabucks across the street, their "Doble Cortado" is now a full fledged "cappuccino". The only thing that bums me out a bit is that the water that they serve with their coffees is no longer agua con gas. I think that there's a bit of old school charm in serving a side of soda water to cleanse the palate after your coffee.

I've noticed that no one has mentioned Cafe Tortoni.

 

[Chicaargentina]

I've noticed that no one has mentioned Cafe Tortoni.

Had a horrible experience with a Cafe Tortoni waiter: he was the rudest, nastiest waiter that ever served me in my life. Awful.

 

[Ries]

I heard great things about La Crespo as well: http://www.lacrespo.com/ Haven't been yet though, but when I get a feel for a bagel or pastrami sandwich, I would def go

The Pastrami is the bomb.

 

[rrptownley]

But you surely cant be totally serious that the "Victorian" feel has been lost in British Railway Stations? St Pancras is a total gem, Kings Cross (now the horrible 70's booking hall is about to be demolished), Waverley Bristol Temple Meads Brighton etc etc. Believe me you cant do a thing without listed building consent in fact the whole conservation movement thing was started in the 1960s by as much Betjemans outcry over the vandalism of Euston

I meant the cafes in the railway stations which, having managed to weather the blitz and post war government reforms remarkably unscathed, have had their charming eateries replaced by M&S express and Wetherspoon's pubs. Not that I mind too much; I love a pint of stale beer and some Percy Pigs before boarding.
St. Pancras has to be the jewel in the crown of transport edifices, and deservedly so after a near 1 billion pound restoration price tag recently. Imagine 800 million pounds of renovation being put into Retiro?

Unfortunately, in the era of serving those who stand and wait, the UK's stations have lost these eddies of reflection and quiescence. In a country like Buenos Aires (intentional, sic) where customer service and business efficiency rank low in priority, there still exist these venerable bastions which draw tourists and those who reminisce of days-gone-by. A pleasant result of the faults here.

Now seeing who vouches for which cafe is interesting. Being very assumptive, I see people who choose the traditional cafes do so for their ambiance, the newer gastro-cafes for their food and possibly for quality of their coffee, and Starbucks for convenience and familiarity.
Is there a place in Buenos Aires that comes close to combining all three?

 

[Magogo]

Café "Petit Córdoba" at Córdoba y Callao, one the the few places where you could still get a "Café con leche" coming in 2 separate large jars, one for café and the other for leche, just like at home and big enough to go 3 rounds in those massive bowls.

Had to close. A shame.

When I fancy a decent cup of coffee, I always try to find places in which the chap at the coffee machine looks like he would have been operating it for years.

 

[Napoleon]

Café "Petit Córdoba" at Córdoba y Callao, one the the few places where you could still get a "Café con leche" coming in 2 separate large jars, one for café and the other for leche, just like at home and big enough to go 3 rounds in those massive bowls.

Had to close. A shame.

This sounds like a total gem that I missed during the 2.5 years that I lived 3 1/2 blocks from here. Kind of disappointed about that.

When I fancy a decent cup of coffee, I always try to find places in which the chap at the coffee machine looks like he would have been operating it for years.

For me, it's not the AGE of the guy operating the machine, it's the QUALITY of the BEANS. THAT is what makes all the difference. And Cafe Dorrego and some of the other coffee houses in town have had to step up the quality of the beans they use to compete with La Estrellabucks. And for that, I'm thankful. Despite what CFK would have you believe, competition can be a VERY GOOD thing.

 

[PhilipDT]

For me, it's not the AGE of the guy operating the machine, it's the QUALITY of the BEANS. THAT is what makes all the difference. And Cafe Dorrego and some of the other coffee houses in town have had to step up the quality of the beans they use to compete with La Estrellabucks. And for that, I'm thankful. Despite what CFK would have you believe, competition can be a VERY GOOD thing.

Beans are crucial but age is important as well. I want a young guy who cares about making good coffee rather than the old guy who has been operating the machine poorly for 20 years.

I don't want this guy:

I want this guy: http://player.vimeo.com/video/8709313

 

[Rich One]

I
I see people who choose the traditional cafes do so for their ambiance, the newer gastro-cafes for their food and possibly for quality of their coffee, and Starbucks for convenience and familiarity.
Is there a place in Buenos Aires that comes close to combining all three?

A Cafe is needed that can make the strongest Illy based Capucino with a thick foam that lasts for ages....!! The ambiance OK, the decor good but not essential, for food other places exist. Not found one yet. Give me that Caffeine shot.

 

[PhilinBSAS]

I've noticed that no one has mentioned Cafe Tortoni.

'Cos we aint tourists?

Incidently I went to El Gato Negro Cafe and Spice Shop in Corrientes a while ago. I adore the herb/spice/coffee smells in there. So do others. Most of the tables were taken.

After sitting for 10 minutes and having read Clarin (but not the supplements) a waiter arrived and seeing most tables were occupied but without anything on the tables then set about handing around a few menus and wandered off.

Do these waiters in Black Cat spent their time around the back smoking "herbals"?

I walked out. Slow Food Slow Coffee I revere the concept but when it is No Food No Coffee it's just boring :lol:

Some of the chain Coffee Shops can serve a good/excellent cup. Tienda de Coffee for instance.