Food Not To Miss While In Argentina

Milanesa is Argentina's comfort/soul food. Like sweet potato pie and corn bread with southern fried chicken. I actually love all the variety of tartas here: roquefort with celery; beet/carrot and green bean tarta; pumpkin and corn with cheese; tarta tricolor, espinaca a la crema; pascualina; calabaza con salsa blanca; berenjenas: mousse de zucchini con zanahoria. Yummy. All you can get in the States is quiche with enough eggs, ham and cheese to cause a heart attack.

Milanesa is indigestible grease. I do like chard pie, which was the one dish at which my late mother-in-law really excelled.
 
The problem is the paper thin meat that gets fried in old and stale oil, leaving you with nothing to eat but charred bread crumbs. A good quality meat, with decent bread crumbs that is baked instead of fried is not too bad. Add tomato sauce and cheese and it's almost chicken parmigiana.
I still cannot to this day, after 7 years, sit at a table and enjoy a milanesa. When I was a kid I remember being served "veal cutlet" and "veal cutlet parmigiana" when visiting some of my Italian neighbors' homes. My friend Tony Maietta's grandmother used to alternate between fried veal cutlets and spaghetti with meatballs, which I preferred. I really liked the side dishes which were sauteed spinach or escarole with garlic and garlic bread. I don't ever think I can consider a milanesa a serious food, to me it's something to eat after playing a little league baseball game.
 
Milanesa is indigestible grease. I do like chard pie, which was the one dish at which my late mother-in-law really excelled.

I don't like milaneseaeither. My mother prepared it a different way when I was growing up. She made it with thick juicy pieces of pork and she made the bread crumbs from scratch with lots of garlic and parsely mixed in and it wasn't deep fried. And her empanadas weren't made from cheap ground meat with grease dripping out. I still remember them.....meat with onions, garlic, parsley, olives, raisins and hard boiled egg whites.
 
For cheese, I like Franco Parma at Vicente López 1692 (corner of Rodriguez Peña). They have imported manchego and pecorino, blue sheep's milk cheese, fresh burrata, and muhammara that they make themselves.

Piccolo Positano, on the same block at Vicente López 1722, also has some treats. I love their brie filled with mascarpone and blue cheese.

If you are looking for artisanal cheeses made with vegetarian rennet, there's https://www.facebook.com/deallaparaaca

Best ice cream (gelato, really) in my opinion is, hands down, Arkakao. It's made fresh daily with no artificial colors, flavors or preservatives. I prefer the Guido/ Montevideo location. My homemade ice cream - mint chip made with mint essential oil is my current favorite - is also sublime and much more budget friendly :)
 
Best ice cream (gelato, really) in my opinion is, hands down, Arkakao. It's made fresh daily with no artificial colors, flavors or preservatives. I prefer the Guido/ Montevideo location. My homemade ice cream - mint chip made with mint essential oil is my current favorite - is also sublime and much more budget friendly :)

I've never been to Arkakao, unfortunately, but it's hard to imagine anything better than the chocolate amargo and mousse de limón at http://www.heladeriacadore.com.ar/

In my own neighborhood, I prefer https://www.google.com.ar/maps/place/Helados+Jauja+S.A./@-34.57853,-58.413237,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m2!3m1!1s0x0:0x4cd117d2031c177f?hl=es, but the Bolsón original has a wider selection of flavors.
 
I tried Cadore a couple of times on the recommendation of someone whose advice is usually perfect... and just no. If I discovered it on my own, I might have been more impressed, but I was told that this was THE place to get Italian gelato in town and it fell too far short of the mark for me. Arkakao is Italian owned and is on a totally different level to anything I have seen in BA, more like what I am used to enjoying in Italy. The flavors change every day, but if you are lucky enough to see dark chocolate/ coconut/ banana together there, that's my recommendation. All of the names of the flavors are in Italian there, BTW.

I tried Jauja - I LOVE the creativity of flavors and the fact that they grow a lot of it themselves and experiment with things like sheep's milk and beer/ mate flavors. I wish there were more businesses like Jauja here! It's totally recommendable, but I still head for Arkakao to satisfy the rare craving when too lazy to make my own.

Visitors who come here and rave about Freddo don't know what they are missing.
 
I tried Cadore a couple of times on the recommendation of someone whose advice is usually perfect... and just no. If I discovered it on my own, I might have been more impressed, but I was told that this was THE place to get Italian gelato in town and it fell too far short of the mark for me. Arkakao is Italian owned and is on a totally different level to anything I have seen in BA, more like what I am used to enjoying in Italy. The flavors change every day, but if you are lucky enough to see dark chocolate/ coconut/ banana together there, that's my recommendation. All of the names of the flavors are in Italian there, BTW.

I tried Jauja - I LOVE the creativity of flavors and the fact that they grow a lot of it themselves and experiment with things like sheep's milk and beer/ mate flavors. I wish there were more businesses like Jauja here! It's totally recommendable, but I still head for Arkakao to satisfy the rare craving when too lazy to make my own.

Visitors who come here and rave about Freddo don't know what they are missing.

Funny because, when Cadore have gone to Italy they have won raves. It's more conventional than Jauja, obviously, but its traditional flavors are spectacular. I've still not been able to visit Arkakao, which I look forward to, but Jauja's always the greater temptation because it's only a block from my apartment.
 
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