I rarely post on here, as I haven't lived in Argentina for a couple of years, but I still read the forum from time to time with nostalgia. I thought I'd come out of hiding and share my experiences as a black American who lived in Argentina for nearly three years.
Racism in Argentina DOES exist. However, a lot of it is pure ignorance rather than true bad intentions. Also, it's so over the top and in your face that it becomes almost a part of daily life and you get desensitized rather quickly.
On my very first day in Argentina back in 2008, I went to an asado with some friends of friends. One of the portenos was clearly drunk and kept saying to me that it was remarkable to meet a gay black man. He was convinced I was straight because he didn't believe that 'negros pueden ser putos'. I was a bit horrified by his comments, but over the years, I got used to hearing outrageous things like this on a weekly basis.
I used to always say that Argentines hated me by day and loved me by night. When I lived in Recoleta, my neighbours who lived in my building often would shut the door in my face if I followed them in the front door or at least make me show them a key to prove that I lived there. Walking down the streets of Recoleta was extremely uncomfortable, as everyone (men and women) would turn around, see that I was behind them and cross the street. It was very annoying if I were trying to get somewhere in a hurry, because if I walked fast down the street, I would literally terrify people as they thought I was going to rob them. I even stopped waiting in line at the ATM because people would literally cancel their transactions and flee if they noticed I was behind them. I do realise that the security situation is a bit sensitive in Buenos Aires, so this could happen to anyone, regardless of skin colour. I couldn't say because I'm not white. However, I did notice that when I walked down the street with my Argentine friends or other non-blacks, no one seemed to cross the street to avoid me or grabbed their bags out of fear of being robbed. Again, I think this has to do more with the fact of 'inseguridad', however I still consider it a bit of racism if people think that I'm more likely to cause harm to them because I have a different skin colour.
However, on the flip side, when I went out at night or participated in any social events, being black was a serious plus. I always stood out, people were genuinely interested in talking to me (although most called me 'el negro', which I grew to love and accept eventually), and I never had any trouble romancing Argentines. It was completely bizarre...during they day the average person wanted to stay as far away from me as possible but at night, they couldn't get enough.
I've been called 'negro de mierda' several times during fights with "close" friends, asked for my documentacion on occassion when walking in Retiro and/or Puerto Madero, been stopped by police a few times and once searched without explanation. However, the majority of the incidents are non-violent or hurtful, they come out of pure curiosity and ignorance. Several Argentines have asked me why the palms of my hand are white if the rest of my skin is black, if my semen is coloured (mostly for joking, but one person was DEAD serious), if my parents are black as well, and other silly things like that.
The most malicious thing anyone ever said to me was "go back to your country and wash your skin with bleach you filthy n*****", which came as a total surprise as the guy was trying to date me and only came out with those harsh comments once I had rejected him.
While I never found it hard to short-term romances with Argentines, I found it very difficult to sustain long-lasting, committed relationships. Most people would simply want to get me into bed just to try out a 'negro', I would literally have people come up to me in nightclubs and tell me 'nunca he estado con un negro, podes ser mi primero' (i've never been with a black guy, can you be my first). When I first moved to Argentina, this was AWESOME. However after a couple of years, it was VERY tiring as I was looking for a relationship and I found that most people saw me as something exotic, something to check off their to-do list and never try again.
It's a bit hard to put into words every experience I had over those years. I left with the general impression that everyone was very friendly and being black probably made my experience much more exciting, but deep down inside, most people were just a tad bit racist, even my friends. Even my friends would make comments such as "how funny, you've got a Paraguayan maid, she must really feel low class if she's cleaning a black guy's house", etc. Most people would wonder how I could tolerate these sorts of comments, but I never let them get to me. Most of them were joking as Argentines have a very bizarre sense of humour, but I attribute most of it to lack of exposure to other cultures and pure ignorance. However, hearing my friends and other Argentines openly talk about how awful the Paraguayans, Peruvians and Bolivians were made me wonder what they said behind my back.
Anyways, I'd do it all over again if I could. I mingled into Argentine society, had a couple of relationships, left with great friends who I still talk to today. I'm a person who is very capable of adapting to my surroundings and I try not to take things too seriously. If you're not thick-skinned, hate attention, or being the constant butt of the (friendly) joke, living in Argentina definitely isn't easy if you're black. You'll get laid though.