Would you move a family to Argentina...?

@SteveInBsAs: almost always when people talk about wages here (I've never enountered different), the figure presented to the employee is the after-tax amount. People here as a whole have the attitude that the employer pays the taxes (and whatever fees, including sindicato dues, etc), even though we know that the employee really pays and if the taxes and such weren't so high the actually take-home would be higher as well.

You make some good points about the area around Palomar and Ramos Mejia, from what I understand as I've never actually been out that way, but I have an expat friend that actually lives in the outskirts of Ramos Mejia. He legally took over a bunch of land out there by occupying land that hadn't been used for decades and had back taxes owed. He improved the land, did whatever legal things needed to get the title over in his name (which included paying the back taxes) and ended up with what he describes as good land at a very cheap cost.

He also tells me about how very rural is his life out there. It suits him.

Steve, you're right about the train - my buddy says it's rickety and dirty and feels unsafe. He took the train for about a year, to our expat dinners on Fridays, when his truck was out of commission. Yuck, is the sense I got from him.

I can't remember now where the $4000 USD a month number came from, the official rate on $18000 pesos a month (doesn't quite reach 4K)? Of course, we all know that the real value of that is more like $2900 USD a month at the blue exchange rate (for the moment! slipping every month), which is extremely important because it gives one a sense of how much the salary is actually worth in more real terms here.

Living out there may provide the ability to live on 18,000 pesos a month, though. Depends on what kind of life, and possibly what kind of commute.

You other guys who are saying you can't live on $4000 USD a month here for a family of 4 - I'm with you as well, at least from my point of view. I think there are varying degrees of this - someone with 4 and 2 year olds can live cheaper than I do, and particularly out in the sticks of Gran Buenos Aires.

I know there are people (expats I mean) who live with families for that or less here in the city as well. It is possible - obviously, the Argentines do it all the time. With MUCH less. (Side note: I took my sister-in-law and a friend of hers out to dinner and a movie on Saturday. We went to TGI Friday to eat - not because I like the place, but because it was in Recoleta shopping by the cine, and because her friend had never eaten there before. She lives on Libertador at Libertad, not a bad place at all, but they are doing everything they can to survive and don't go spend $420 pesos for a meal for 3 people...ever).

One thing that many people who say "you can live so much cheaper than X salary in Buenos Aires" (I'm going to include Gran Buenos Aires in that) don't seem to bother with is the standard of living, unless I'm missing something.

I didn't move to Argentina with the expressed purpose of lowering my standard of living. I didn't immigrate to Argentina at all - I moved here to live, not to become Argentine. That doesn't meant that I don't want to learn the culture and that I want to isolate myself in an expat bubble (I live in both worlds).

What it means is - if I can't live what I consider to be a relatively high standard of living, I don't want to live here. I'm not committed to Argentina or Buenos Aires in particular to the point where I will continue to watch my standard of living shrink month by month and do nothing about it. I don't want to find myself moving into smaller and smaller apartments or houses, or moving into areas I don't care for in order to find something affordable, because I don't have to.

In point of fact, at the beginning of this year I had decided to do exactly that - leave Argentina. I'd had enough of the inflation and the other things that come with life here weren't enough to make me want to tolerate lowering my standard of living.

Hell, two years ago when I enrolled my sister-in-law into a private school in the city, we payed 680 pesos a month for school. We are now paying 1500. Professors to help her study when I couldn't help with a particular subject or was busy - from roughly 35 pesos an hour to 75+. Clothes prices rising, food prices rising, rent rising, etc, etc, etc, ad infinitum.

Then the split between the blue and official dollar rate finally began to seriously move and made things much more realistic price-wise. As an example, two and a half years ago, the dollar rate was probably something like 4 pesos back then if I remember well, less earlier in the year (working from memory). I was paying, then, for school at 680 pesos, between $180 - $170 USD roughly. Now, at the blue rate, I'm paying $241 USD. At the official rate, I'd be paying around $322 USD. While I'd rather pay $170 than $241, that's at least manageable but $322 is getting ridiculous, particularly for what we're getting.

This applies to everything here. Still more expensive than it was, but it set us back to prices comparable to a couple of years ago.

Now the political situation has me worried. It's not just prices that concern me, but stability and the ability to get things that one needs. But that's a whole other set of issues now...

Going back to someone moving here and earning $18000 pesos a month. Even if you could afford that now, don't think that it will retain its same value by the end of the year, for sure. And I'm not talking about converting to foreign currency like the dollar - $18000 pesos WILL buy much less here by the end of the year unless some sort of miracle occurs.

I cannot currently live on $4000 USD a month without lowering my lifestyle significantly. My apartment, parking space, building expenses, etc, cost half of that now (I like my apartment and I can get a king-sized bed in both of our two big bedrooms, my office could be a third bedroom and I could fit a king in here as well. I have a dependencia with a single bed too - when I was looking for apartments, cheaper ones had such small bedrooms a queen occupied most of the space - forget about a king it wouldn't have fit within the walls at all!). Add school, health and car insurance, electricity (!!!!!), land line telephone (!!!!) and all the other things listed previously by Early - without the blue rate I would have been gone around the time school opened this year.

The OP hasn't posted in a bit - maybe he's decided we're a bunch of complainers and we've got things all wrong, I don't know. I know I'm being as honest as possible from a viewpoint of maintaining a reasonably high standard of living.
 
I love reading the many posts of interesting posters like earlyretirement, Elqueso,Iznogud, citygirl, GS_dirtboy..honestly it's a hoot and all of this thread is full of useful info for long term expats but standing aside and asking myself objectively does any of it really matter for a 2 yr posting? It seems like Bugbunnys work will take care of his major expenses like rent and schooling and hes hardly going to be on the breadline with 18k pesos for 2 years...It's hard to argue it's not a good move for the sheer expereince of it and the chance to go back to the UK and appreciate some of the things locals take for granted. Remember 2yrs tends to be the honeymoon period for many expats here..I know that it was only after that period the frustrations mounted and that was because I felt we had to stay..2 years will pass at warp speed for most so why not take the risk?
 
ElQueso - I think your posts are great and always helpful.

Another thing I forgot to mention is that many people in Argentina have this "live for today" type attitude. And I've seen many ex-pats get caught up in it as well. Where they might make enough to live paycheck to paycheck but there is no game plan for the future.

Many aren't figuring into their budget any retirement savings so when they are older they are basically screwed. So you have to add into your monthly budgets enough to cover savings for retirement.

Things just add up when you have kids. Those with no kids can't even begin to understand the difference not only in responsibility but also costs having kids. I didn't even add in all the costs of toys, books, educational stuff we buy our kids on a monthly basis. Stuff just adds up with kids.
 
Earlyretirement's list probably includes expenses that bugsbunny hasn't considered, but (based on the information he has already posted) he may not have to pay for many of the items on the list...and most of the others are within his control and/or optional. If the kids arethe same gender, "hand me downs" are also an option. I used bold type to indicate the costs that will be paid by his employer as well as those which are optional or discretionary.

-Even taking out the rental payment (we owned our flat in BA) we had monthly condo dues that were quite high.

- ABL taxes
- Home phone line
- My wife and I had cellphone plans with Blackberry service (optional and cheaper plans are available with free calls between several numbers (Claro or Moviestar).
- Electricity, gas, water cable, 2 internet plans (not sure if cable and internet are included in the "bills paid" by the employer).
- Housekeeper salary (optional)
- Groceries each month
- Car Insurance, fuel, license plate fees each year (optional)
- Life insurance (optional)
- Health insurance with OSDE for the family
- Home insurance for our apartment
- Dining out at restaurants (optional)
- School stuff and classes (swimming classes, ballet classes, horse riding lessons, etc)
- Kids clothes (they grow like weeds!)
- Haircuts, etc. for the family
- Salon stuff for my wife (hair, nails, etc)
- Clothes for my wife and I (mostly work clothes)
- Drycleaning (optional)
- Gym dues (optional)
- Entertaining and sporting events (movies, concerts,etc) (optional)
- Subscriptions to newspaper and magazines including on ipad (optional)

- Travel (optional) A week in Palermo or Recoleta might be an attractive "vacation" option after living in Palomar for a number of months. I can't endorse the idea of buying a "caravan" to travel about Argentina or any of it's neighbors (not many well supervised campgrounds like KOA that I know of). Also, selling it when the two years are up could present a new set of problems (even if it can be sold before you leave are you willing to take a significant loss converting the pesos into foreign currency at the blue rate?). Meanwhile, its not likely to fit in a normal garage and it's not the kind of vehicle that would survive for long if parked in the street.
 
fifs2 said:
I love reading the many posts of interesting posters like earlyretirement, Elqueso,Iznogud, citygirl, GS_dirtboy..honestly it's a hoot and all of this thread is full of useful info for long term expats but standing aside and asking myself objectively does any of it really matter for a 2 yr posting? It seems like Bugbunnys work will take care of his major expenses like rent and schooling and hes hardly going to be on the breadline with 18k pesos for 2 years...It's hard to argue it's not a good move for the sheer expereince of it and the chance to go back to the UK and appreciate some of the things locals take for granted. Remember 2yrs tends to be the honeymoon period for many expats here..I know that it was only after that period the frustrations mounted and that was because I felt we had to stay..2 years will pass at warp speed for most so why not take the risk?

fifs2 - I totally agree with you. There are a lot of interesting posters on this board. Lots of good information as well from our melting pot of knowledge on Argentina.

I do think it still matters even though it's a 2 year posting. 2 years isn't a long time in the grand scheme of things in Argentina. However, 2 years is a LONG time if you have an unhappy spouse that is uprooting her life with 2 young kids if it's not something they understand what they are getting themselves into.

So I think the advice is all sound and valid that people are giving him. My advice would be a LOT different if the OP was a single guy with no wife and kids. Then I'd say take all the "adventure" you want and go for it.

But life drastically changes once you have kids. Granted they are at a young age where they won't be as affected but still it can be a culture shock for a spouse to be in a first world environment to an almost third world environment with the way some things work in Argentina.

Under that situation, 2 years can be an eternity. 2 years isn't going to make or break anyone. But it's still wise to listen to all the information posted. Especially when the OP posted really really false information like "the post office will buy back my pesos at the official rate".

I know some ex-pats that got sent to Argentina from the USA or Australia and they moved down with their spouse and kids. And let me tell you, some of them felt like the 2 or 3 year assignment was like a prison sentence counting down the days. LOL.

It's a drastic culture shock dealing with all of the restrictions and controls but even everyday stuff that we're used to like waiting in line at the bank, or trying to pick up a simple package at the post office without getting extorted, going to the grocery store and not having a huge line, etc.

The OP is wise to just take in all the information and it would be nice if he stopped by to post an update what he decided.
 
I would struggle to just support myself alone in 4000 us$/mo with or without taxes.
 
earlyretirement said:
fifs2 - I totally agree with you. There are a lot of interesting posters on this board. Lots of good information as well from our melting pot of knowledge on Argentina.

I do think it still matters even though it's a 2 year posting. 2 years isn't a long time in the grand scheme of things in Argentina. However, 2 years is a LONG time if you have an unhappy spouse that is uprooting her life with 2 young kids if it's not something they understand what they are getting themselves into.

So I think the advice is all sound and valid that people are giving him. My advice would be a LOT different if the OP was a single guy with no wife and kids. Then I'd say take all the "adventure" you want and go for it.

But life drastically changes once you have kids. Granted they are at a young age where they won't be as affected but still it can be a culture shock for a spouse to be in a first world environment to an almost third world environment with the way some things work in Argentina.

Under that situation, 2 years can be an eternity. 2 years isn't going to make or break anyone. But it's still wise to listen to all the information posted. Especially when the OP posted really really false information like "the post office will buy back my pesos at the official rate".

I know some ex-pats that got sent to Argentina from the USA or Australia and they moved down with their spouse and kids. And let me tell you, some of them felt like the 2 or 3 year assignment was like a prison sentence counting down the days. LOL.

It's a drastic culture shock dealing with all of the restrictions and controls but even everyday stuff that we're used to like waiting in line at the bank, or trying to pick up a simple package at the post office without getting extorted, going to the grocery store and not having a huge line, etc.

The OP is wise to just take in all the information and it would be nice if he stopped by to post an update what he decided.



Fair point er..I was working and can honesly say the 8 years flew by in the blink of an eye, problems and all...sitting at home counting the hours till hubbie comes back is a different story and one Im glad I didnt have to face as with work comes a social life, friends etc which are generally hard things to come by in any new culture without a serious grasp of the language. Just don't think from the OP that he's overly interested in the hard earned advice being metered out by you experts which is his perrogative as we all tend to learn by experience not words!
 
Absolutely fifs2! Time flies by so quickly. I think that holds true no matter what country you are in. However, I can honestly say that you can forgot just how inefficient of a place Argentina is after living there for so many years.

After moving back to the USA life just seems TOO EASY now. LOL. I mean everything works so well. You go to the grocery store and everything you could possibly want is there, no lines. You go mail a letter and it's quick and easy or just buy stamps from the machine. You get packages at the door daily with no problems. Traffic is such a breeze with respectful drivers. Banking seems too good to be true after dealing with the horrible banks in Argentina.

Now I wonder how I put up with all the red tape so many years. LOL. Don't get me wrong...I still love Argentina but boy is it an inefficient place.
 
earlyretirement said:
Absolutely fifs2! Time flies by so quickly. I think that holds true no matter what country you are in. However, I can honestly say that you can forgot just how inefficient of a place Argentina is after living there for so many years.

After moving back to the USA life just seems TOO EASY now. LOL. I mean everything works so well. You go to the grocery store and everything you could possibly want is there, no lines. You go mail a letter and it's quick and easy or just buy stamps from the machine. You get packages at the door daily with no problems. Traffic is such a breeze with respectful drivers. Banking seems too good to be true after dealing with the horrible banks in Argentina.

Now I wonder how I put up with all the red tape so many years. LOL. Don't get me wrong...I still love Argentina but boy is it an inefficient place.


I couldn't agree more. When my husband was travelling on business he always apologized for leaving me on my own in Bsas due to the sheer number of hoops one has to jump through for the most basic things like a child having the flu and being off school ie take them to the doctor to verify flu and get sick note. Take them back to the doctor to verify improved health before they can get a note validating their return to school...and not because Argentineans love kids more than any other country but because it seems like an obra social scam to get more dr appts and more money. Life in Europe is just so easy: dr, bank, supermarket, internet shopping...these are the easy things in life not even worth a moment's thought, the way they should be. Got a question for the bank: drop by and they'll call you later or mail you...and they do. Being registered as resident here was 15mins per person. They actually seem to want working tax paying immigrants. Your child has a bad cold - ok keep them off school and send them back when you think they're better! It's just easy, driven by common sense and I love it and it's the place for me to live just as Bsas is a dream for me to visit. I love Bsas but as I always say it's for the young, energetic and not for the faint hearted.
 
Can I say a big virtual THANK YOU to all the board members who have helped in responding to my original question about relocating my family to Buenos Aires. I never imagined it would illicit such a broad spread of responses in such a short space of time and as such demonstrates the popularity and power of this ExPat Group and the internet as a whole. :D

I appreciate that most of the responses are warning us against our trip to Argentina however it would appear that a lot of those are coming from people near the centre of Buenos Aires which has a range of different issues to a 'leafy' suburb in Greater Buenos Aires it would seem. Also many people seem to think that we'd struggle on a salary of 18K paid in pesos (this is after tax) however we would have no bills to pay, live in secure furnished accommodation with a range of other incentives, not to mention the opportunity of my wife getting work albeit on a local salary. We'd also be getting at least an annual review of salary.

We've basically decided that we probably won't be able to save in Argentina but you won't be able to put a price on the memories and experiences we would gain as a consequence. What is the value of your children growing up bilingual in the early formative years of their life? I had a quick look at some of the costs of visiting an estancia (Englishgaucho)for a few days at a cost of $650 pp for three days including horse riding, accommodation and pick up. £85 or $139 US dollars. That seems remarkably cheap and the sort of thing which we can spend those pesos on. Lots of trips up to Tigre too. Eating out most nights. Holidays in Mendoza and Cordoba sampling the wine, food and fresh air.

Thank to fifs2 for her comment about it being a 2 year appointment and time flying. I like her go getting attitude as well as that of davonz and snowwhitebum! Thank you to steve regarding his long and wise posts as well as elqueso and all the others. If i could buy you all a beer I would (how much is a quilmes at the moment?!)

Sometimes I wish the Internet hadn't been invented however, as it seems to add another layer of complexity to making any decision. Everything these days seems to involves an ever increasing range of possibilities. Just look at the average shampoo section in a supermarket and compare it to 20 years ago!

Thank you again and I'll continue to respond and post if this snowballs even more!
 
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